A GOOD TIME FOR WINTER PRUNING
Most of the autumn
leaves have now fallen, and a few frosts towards the end of November have
firmed up the soil, so now is the perfect time to start the winter pruning. Up
at City Road allotments the timing of pruning is also related to the disposal
of prunings. We have a large shredding machine so we make sure everything
needing pruned
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Cutting back the outdoor fuchsia |
is done in one operation, so roses, fruit bushes, raspberries,
apples and pears and even our grape vines all get chopped. We form teams who gather
the prunings together then another team feed the wood
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Climbing rose after pruning |
into the shredder. The
shredded material is great for paths, mulching, or adding to the compost heap.
Nothing is wasted and it is great to see all our pruned branches get recycled
back onto our plots. Wood chips used for paths will only last two years before
it gets removed to the compost heap and a supply of fresh material brought in.
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Raspberry pruned and tied in |
Apples and pear
pruning in the early years
is all about building up a well balanced tree with an open centre then after a
few years remove any diseased shoots, overcrowded centres, crossing branches
and with pears some removal of those over vigorous shoots growing straight up
without any fruit on them. Do not prune
plums in winter as it risks infection by silver leaf disease. Prune these in
early summer.
Blackcurrant pruning is done to keep bushes young and
remove older wood. Redcurrants are also pruned this way so no shoot is allowed
to remain if it is older than three years. They readily push out new shoots
from the centre, so try to keep about ten or so main shoots then do a bit of
spur pruning to the remaining framework.
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Rose bush pruned |
Gooseberries have a tendency to bear heavy crops that
bend down to ground level when full of fruit, so remove any low growing shoots
and keep the centre of the bush open to make picking easier. Invicta is a great
variety, but the spines are deadly when picking.
Saskatoons fruit on all wood so pruning is only needed
to keep the bushes down to about five feet so they can be netted to keep the
blackbirds away. I remove any tall shoots right down to ground level as they
grow again from basal suckers.
Raspberries come as summer fruiting on canes grown the
previous year, and autumn fruiting on canes grown in the same year. So for
autumn fruiting cut everything down to the ground, but on the summer fruiting
only cut out those canes that fruited last summer. New canes are thinned if
growth has been
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Spur pruned grape vine |
prolific so that canes can be spaced about four inches apart
when tied in to the top wire. Practise tying in with a running knot as this
prevents the canes being blown to one side in gales.
Brambles are like summer fruiting raspberries. They
fruit on long shoots grown the previous year. Remove all the old canes that
have just fruited and tie in the new canes to fruit next year.
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Shredding team at City road Allotments |
Grape vines grown both under glass and in the open can
be pruned in the same way. Establish a permanent framework of rods and spurs.
The rods produce spurs every six to ten inches apart from which fruiting
laterals grow, so prune from December to January by cutting all this growth
back to one or two buds. Sap rises very early on vines so do not delay pruning
beyond January otherwise the stems may bleed with rising sap. The Guyot system
allows rods to be replaced every year.
Rose pruning of bushes and climbers are fairly similar in
that we try and encourage new wood and cut out old wood, but it is difficult
with climbers as they need older wood to climb up walls and fences. Remove weak
and any diseased shoots and shorten back vigorous shoots by a third.
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hardwood cuttings |
Wee jobs to do this week
Now that all the
deciduous shrubs have gone dormant it is a good time to propagate these with hardwood
cuttings. This is an excellent way to propagate Cornus, Forsythia, Philadelphus
and many other shrubs as well as currants and gooseberries. Take some of this
year’s shoots about pencil thickness and about six inches long, cutting below a
leaf joint and above a bud. Insert into a prepared bed of good garden soil with
grit mixed in to aid drainage placing cuttings about four inches apart and half
their length. A cold frame is also useful to give the cuttings some protection.
They should be well rooted by this time next year.
END