NEW IDEAS FOR 2014 WITH HINDSIGHT
Last week
we reviewed the garden and allotment to analyse how plants and crops performed
with a late spring, a brilliant summer then a poor autumn. We can never tell
what the weather has in store for us, so we plan crops for what we hope will be
a normal year.
Flowers
Some
plants are very reliable and will give a great display no matter what kind of
year we get. Geraniums, tuberous begonias, gladioli and chrysanthemums never
let me down. When I lived in Darlington the drier sunnier climate allowed us to
grow fantastic African marigolds. Now I always reckon Dundee is Scotland’s
sunniest city, (I’m sure I read it somewhere) so my African marigolds should be
just fine. In 2012 they were an absolute washout, but I tried them again last
year. Growth was massive, but flowering was never a show stopper. This year I
will have a few but they have to perform or they get deleted. Fuchsias did not
like the hot weather, but they are special so will be grown again this year.
I have
always loved roses, but black spot really tests them now there is not a decent
chemical to spray them with. Some varieties have stronger foliage and can
resist an attack, but many of my favourites such as Margaret Merrill and even
Iceberg can suffer very badly.
Vegetables
Following
the disastrous 2012 wet year when clubroot attacked every brassica, turnips,
Swedes, radish, wallflowers and even my mustard green manures, I made many
changes. Mustard green manure was replaced with red clover and tares, and most brassica
varieties had to be bred for clubroot resistance. Most of these new varieties
had been bred here at the James Hutton Institute, and results have been
fantastic. I have had such heavy crops and no losses that we had far more than
we could eat or freeze so a lot was given away. So this year it is back to
Swede Marion or Gowrie, cabbage Kilaton and cauliflower Clapton. I still grow
Brussels sprouts Wellington, but may try Crispus this year as it is clubroot
resistant.
Fruit
Hopefully
this year will see my first huge sweet berries from my new Big Ben
blackcurrants, and also my new row of raspberry Glen Fyne.
I have
tried cape gooseberries for too many years now. Last year’s great summer helped
the growth and fruiting, but autumn was poor so the young fruits would just not
ripen up. Outdoor plants were a waste of time and even in the greenhouse they
did not impress me.
This is
the goji berries last chance. If it doesn’t fruit, or the fruit is not
absolutely delicious it gets dug out.
Outdoor
grapes were a huge success, but then it was a great summer and all the
varieties are early ripening so the poor autumn did not affect them. However,
as they are only just planted, other than Solaris, which is in its third year,
they will need training and good growing to see if they can continue to give
good results.
Rondo,
Regent, Solaris and Phoenix all gave some grapes that ripened just fine. Siegerrebe
struggled to grow so it will need another year or more to try it out.
Outdoor
cherry Cherokee was really good last year, so hopefully this will continue with
an even better crop as the dwarf tree gets bigger.
This has
to be the year my new varieties of pear, Beurre Hardy and the Christie, grafted
onto my Comice in 2011 bear some fruit, as I did not get one fruit last year.
Also my outdoor peach Peregrine failed to fruit last year, so hopefully it will
crop heavily in 2014.
Apple
grafts from local heritage varieties Park Farm Pippin, Lord Roseberry and Pearl
will also give me some crop this year, hopefully, provided 2014 turns out to be
a relatively normal year free from gales, blizzards, floods and tornadoes. Only
time will tell.
Plant of the week
Cyclamen persicum has always been a favourite pot
plant for autumn and winter flowering, always trying to time peak flowering
around Christmas, but usually getting it too early. They come in a range of
white, pink, mauve and scarlet colours. Keep them cool and moist but never wet
and they are happier on a less sunny windowsill. They can flower every year
with the right conditions. Water, some feeding and cool growing conditions
after flowering will build up a strong corm. Dry it off in summer to give it a
rest before starting it off again in autumn. If it needs repotting keep the
corm above the soil surface to prevent any rotting of the new foliage or
flowers.
END