DAFFODILS AND NARCISSUS

DAFFODILS AND NARCISSUS

When the snowdrops and aconites are in flower you know winter is coming to an end and spring is approaching, but when the daffodils come into bloom spring is well and truly established. It is so rewarding to see these heralds of spring that just about every garden has a wee bunch or drift, and Dundee City Council Parks department had them mass planted along highways, in housing estates and parks by the million. However those were planted at a time, many years ago, when creating attractive urban landscapes was not curtailed by financial cutbacks, and the benefits are with us today. There is still huge scope to enhance the floral landscape, more relevant now with new developments planned around the V & A.

 A vibrant city of culture needs an environment to be proud of.

Dundee once boasted a very colourful City maintained by skilled gardeners. It would be a pity if that is only to remain a pleasant memory. However the road from Botanical Gardens to Tesco is still very eye catching when the drifts of daffodils come into full bloom, though my favourites are always the drifts of Narcissus February Gold planted along the Lochee Road. They are always the first in flower in mid March alongside the crocus flowers.

Daffodils and narcissi come in thousands of different varieties. Some have large flowers such as the King Alfred and Golden Harvest. Mount Hood has a large flowered white trumpet and a brilliant scent. February Gold has smaller flowers but when mass planted create a fantastic splash of colour.

My favourite scented narcissi are the Cheerfulness varieties as well as the small flowered Jonquils.

Some have beautiful colour combinations like Ice Follies, a white with a lemon yellow cup and Pink Pride with a pink cup. Lemon yellow flowers are very attractive with St. Patrick’s Day a winner.

Plant some large trumpet daffodils beside a drift of the early Fosteriana tulip Red Emperor as they frequently flower at the same time.

They can be planted in deciduous shrub borders, in amongst herbaceous borders especially next to some blue flowered Pulmonaria and even under apple trees or other fruit trees. Many people plant them in lawns, which is fine, but resist the temptation to tidy up the old leaves too soon as it is these leaves that help to build up a large strong bulb for flowering the following year.

Every autumn I can always find a spot for a few more daffodils, or I buy in for planting in tubs or forcing in pots to give early flowers for the house. Once these are finished they can be kept growing to build up a good bulb then dried off after a couple of months. I always reuse these somewhere around the garden.

If you are starting at the beginning, then after selecting those you wish to try, plant them in a random drift about six inches to a foot apart. In time the drift will thicken up as the bulbs increase in size. Encourage growth of the foliage after flowering by giving a dressing of fertiliser and leave them for a minimum of six weeks or longer before removing the leaves.

Take care when handling the bulbs and cut stems and foliage as most daffodils and narcissi sap contains many types of alkaloid poisons. It is not lethal but some people can develop a rash.

Daffodils are not troubled too much by pests and diseases, though narcissus fly can lay eggs which hatch out into maggots which eat the centre out of the bulb. Infected bulbs still produce a few leaves but very few flowers. When removing the old leaves disturb the soil so that any hole left by the old leaves is filled up to deny the fly easy access to the bulbs where it can lay its eggs.

 Plant of the week

Drumstick primula (Primula denticulata) flowers in spring and early summer with white, lilac, and pink flowers. Primulas like a rich moisture retaining soil that can be quite damp but still well drained. They grow about a foot tall and prefer dappled shade conditions.

Propagate by division after flowering as well as by seed or root cuttings taken in winter. Buy in seed as home saved seed may not come true to type.

Painting of the Month

Summer Seas is an acrylic semi abstract based on a coastal photo from the Isle of Skye. The focus was on creating pleasing shapes with colour in harmony and a very loose style where abstract qualities were more important than an identifiable location.

This painting will be shown in my exhibition in Old Ladyloan School in Arbroath at the end of May as one of the artists participating in the Angus Open Studios event.

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CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER ALL YEAR ROUND

CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER ALL YEAR ROUND

Spring is well and truly here and gardening activities are becoming very serious. Seed sowing started last month with tomatoes but in March there are numerous flowers and vegetables ready for sowing. However I want to concentrate on cabbage and cauliflower this week as they have become a crop that needs a lot of attention, and it is now time to sow seeds for an early summer crop.

They must rank at top of the list of plants to grow with the greatest challenge. I know of no other plant that has so many problems to solve to succeed with a decent crop. Onions only get white rot, gooseberries only get sawfly and a wee bit of mildew, peas and beans get off very lightly, pumpkins and courgettes just the occasional nibble from a mouse, but cabbage and cauliflower have no end of problems.

Clubroot is the main killer, but rootfly maggots can also devastate young plants, then the slugs and cabbage white butterfly caterpillars take over. If anything still survives those plagues the pigeons will seek them out and eat them. Off course you can also get greenfly, mealy aphis and cutworms.

However there is always a solution for every problem. I have slowly found answers to most of these troubles only to create another problem as full rows of healthy vegetables all mature at the same time, and two people with small appetites can only eat so much.

So this year my final problem will be solved by growing smaller rows, and doing a range of sowing dates as well as different varieties to mature over a far longer period. In fact my target is year round production so I will always have a cabbage or cauliflower available every week of the year should we wish one. January to April can be a problem with fresh cauliflower but they freeze well so there is always plenty around.

Cultivation

Cabbages, cauliflower and all other brassicas enjoy fertile soil, moist but well drained and a higher pH than other vegetables. Land should be well cultivated in winter, incorporating plenty of well rotted manure or compost and leaving the surface rough so it can weather down. Apply a dressing of hydrated lime in late winter to help to neutralise the soil acidity.

Soil surface is broken down, firmed and raked level in April just before planting begins. At this stage I add some fertiliser. Young plants need phosphorus to assist strong root growth to get them established then nitrogen to boost leafy growth. I am using Perlka which adds calcium as well as nitrogen which helps in the fight against clubroot.

Allow about 18 inches between plants when planting and always keep a few spare as you are sure to suffer some losses.

Problems

Clubroot is a soil borne fungus that destroys the root system. It is best controlled by liming to reduce acidity, practising at least a four year rotation and only growing brassicas bred for disease resistance.

Rootfly maggots which eat the roots can be prevented by using collars around the newly planted plants to prevent the fly having access to the root zone.

Slugs and snails can be controlled by pellets and picking off pests as they appear.

Pick off caterpillars during the summer months, though netting can also be very effective.

The only control against pigeons is netting the growing plants so these pests have no access.

Sowing dates

I start off the season by sowing in mid March with cabbage Golden Acre and cauliflower Clapton to crop in July to September. Later sowings at the end of April with cabbage Kilaton and more cauliflower Clapton will extend harvesting well into autumn.

At the end of May I sow my winter hardy savoy cabbage Tundra and Traviata which will be available to pick all winter and if we continue with a mild winter they will last into spring.

At the end of June I sow my spring cabbage April and cauliflower Aalsmeer which will overwinter for harvesting from April to June.

Cabbages can stand in the ground a long time so no need to harvest them all together, but cauliflower tends to ripen up all at the same time so repeated sowings a month apart is very useful to prolong their season.

Plant of the week

Chionodoxa commonly known as the Glory of the Snow produces a carpet of small blue flowers in March. It comes from the eastern Mediterranean where is grows in well drained mountainous conditions often appearing as the snow melts. It is very easy to grow in sun or partial shade below deciduous shrubs and soon spreads as it grows easily from its own seeds. Drifts can be started off with a few bulbs planted in autumn then left to grow.

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GARDEN SOIL

GARDEN SOIL

We all assume soil is just soil, but it is a very dynamic and variable material that it is beneficial to understand exactly what we have in our garden so we can know how to use it to get the best out of it for our plants.

Soil is a mixture of sand, clay, silt, humus and stones and can vary in depth, colour, drainage properties and nutrients available. No two soils are similar as they will vary from one place to another depending on their location and history. Some soils in the south of the UK sitting on the chalk downlands have a high pH with problems of nutrients being locked up and unavailable to plants. Coastal soils are often very dry if there is a lot of sand in the soil and these are also very poor in nutrient availability as there is not much clay particles which hold onto mineral nutrients. Some parts of Scotland in the north and west have a high rainfall and poor drainage which favours the build up of organic peat layers causing poor aeration and waterlogging.

However, much of the UK has a fair mixture of sand, silt and clay which with the right management can yield excellent results. The ideal soil for optimum plant growth will have about 45% mineral sand, silt and clay with 5% humus and 50% pore space to allow good water percolation and gaseous exchange. This will allow a good environment for worms and other soil organisms, fungi and bacteria to thrive and create a good soil colloidal crumb structure so that added organic matter can be broken down into humus to improve structure and release nutrients.

Formation of soils

Soil formation is an ongoing process beginning with the weathering of rock. Volcanic rock subjected to erosion by wind, water, acid rain and ice creates small particles that get washed or blown down mountains till they accumulate in small deposits. Algae and lichens can then grow on these and when they die they add a small amount of humus. As the process continues the deposits grow bigger and support more organisms then higher forms of plants life such as mosses and ferns can grow. Eventually pioneer tree species will colonise the area with roots that can penetrate deeper into the parent bedrock below the shallow soil and help to disintegrate the rocks further.

Other soils can be formed as tides and rivers deposit sand and silt every time there is a flood creating alluvium plains which are usually very fertile. Retreating glaciers from previous ice ages left behind deep deposits of boulder clays found to be very fertile once cultivated, drained and the bigger rocks removed. Soils can also be formed from areas of deep peat and silt once drainage has been carried out, though peat soils lacking in clay content can be very low in available nutrients.

Clay soils may be subject to poor drainage and heavy to cultivate, but once well drained and organic matter added they can be very fertile as clay can hold onto and release its nutrients for the plants benefit. Clay particles are extremely chemically active playing a very important role in holding and releasing plant nutrients. However this activity is influenced by soil aeration, drainage and pH levels.

The optimum pH for healthy plant growth is about 6.5. Problems emerge when soil is too acidic (well below pH6.0) or alkaline (above pH7.0) as some essential nutrients are then locked up and unavailable to plants, and others may become too readily available in toxic amounts.

Sandy coastal soils may be very well drained, but can suffer in dry weather and lack of clay content means they are usually very poor in nutrients. Adding manure, compost or rotted seaweed can be very beneficial.

Soil improvements

To support optimum plant growth soils need to be well drained, have adequate organic matter such as manure or well rotted garden compost added to improve the soil structure and provide the means for healthy soil organisms from worms to bacteria to thrive.

Add a green manure crop such as mustard, tares, clover, ryegrass or phacelia in autumn or spring whenever the ground is free from crops. This will break up heavy soils and increase air space, improving the soil colloidal structure, as well as adding organic matter. Many of these green manures such as clover have nitrogen fixing bacteria on their roots which greatly increase the availability of nitrogen to the following crops. Crop rotation, liming once every four years for the benefit of brassicas, and adding fertilisers will all help to increase the soil fertility.

I am also a great believer in double digging two feet deep and adding well rotted manure or compost before planting long term permanent plants such as trees, roses and fruit bushes.

However those practitioners of the no dig camp at City Road allotments have certainly been getting very impressive results on their vegetable crops, so we must keep an open mind on the best practise way forward.

Plant of the week

Pinus mugo the mountain pine is a dwarf pine that will give character to rock gardens and heather borders. It is evergreen, easy to grow and associates well with rocks and other hard landscaping. It is very tough and tolerates a wide range of soils and exposure to winds. There are a range of forms, so make sure you get a really dwarf type for rock gardens.

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IN BETWEEN SEASONS

IN BETWEEN SEASONS

Wet soil surface continues to hamper working the soil, but when the sun shines and the winds blow the surface dries up just enough to get the spade out before the next shower appears.

The garden carries on enjoying the sunshine as temperatures begin to climb.

The allotment continues to provide plenty fresh winter vegetables with cabbage, sprouts, Swedes, leeks, kale, Swiss chard and salad leaves of rocket and other mixed leafy salads are still plentiful.

Fruit and vegetables from the freezer now supplements the fresh produce and makes room for other vegetables. Room is found in the freezer for kale leaves and beetroot picked a couple of weeks ago. Beetroot also makes a brilliant chutney, as does Victoria plums from the freezer. The kale which is high in iron and great to maintain good eyesight will be used in soups and stir fries.

Although we still have a few pumpkins from last year, one is now on the table destined for a pumpkin risotto with some left over chicken pieces and the chicken stock.

Anna got our last eating apple from store, a lovely red Fiesta marking the end of our home grown dessert apple crop, but we still have three huge boxes of Bramley cooking apples. This fantastic cooker stores a very long time even though we use the fruit on every occasion for crumbles, stewed apple, compote and chutney. I managed to get ten demijohns of wine brewed from the small, damaged, misshapen and bruised fruit deemed best not to put into store.

In the Garden

Rhododendron praecox has been magnificent as there has been no frost to blacken the early flowers. The bright mauve flowers are a great contrast to the yellow, purple and white crocus planted at its feet. Even the snowdrops continue to flower into early March.

My winter border with Cornus Westonbirt, Mid Winter Fire and the willow Salix britzensis has never looked better especially now the drifts of crocus are fully out as colourful ground cover.

The wet year of 2012 gave the border enough moisture to last right through last year’s hot dry summer so growth was very strong with the willows reaching eight foot tall. Although these bushes get cut right back to ground level, they still grow back again strongly every year.

Looking ahead

As the sun begins to show us some spring warmth it is a good time to plan ahead for this years fruit crops. A low polythene tunnel was erected over a two foot wide row of early strawberry Mae. This protection should enhance cropping, bring it forward by at least two weeks and as the polythene keeps the fruit dry botrytis should not be much of a problem rotting the fruit.

Recent wet weather has created a problem trying to find a couple of dry days to spray Bordeaux mixture on my peach tree to prevent peach leaf curl. The first spray went on during a warm sunny morning, only to see the rain coming in by afternoon, so I just have to keep an eye on the weather forecast to catch the next decent dry day. I will soon run out of time as the buds are swelling up and flowering will start very soon.

February gales were no problem as my damaged greenhouse has been cleared off site. The breeze block base will get some repairs before the new stronger greenhouse with 4mm strengthened tough glass arrives, hopefully my mid March.

In the meantime it is time to sow my tomatoes, which will have to settle for a warm windowsill for a few weeks. This year I will still grow my favourites, Alicante and Gardeners Delight and try the new golden cherry variety Ildi.

Broad bean Giant Exhibition Longpod can also be sown now. These find a warm spot at home, then go onto a windowsill as soon as germination occurs. Broad beans are quite hardy so they will go outside once the plants are a decent size. Similarly, sweet peas can also be sown indoors to get them started, but shifted outdoors as long as our mild weather continues.

It is the tomatoes that are at risk if the weather turns colder, so if they need more windowsill space my established geraniums will go outdoors as they are fairly tough.

Plant of the week

Ivy ground cover is perfect for creating an attractive maintenance free border. The low growing foliage is quite dense and soon smothers any weeds trying to compete. There are golden variegated forms such as Hedera helix Buttercup and Goldheart, silver variegation such as Glacier, and some varieties such as Hedera canariensis have large exotic leaves. The smaller leaved varieties make excellent ground cover in shrub borders, but take care as they will climb up the bushes in time. They will also climb walls and fences, but an annual trim back in winter will keep them in their place. They provide frost protection at ground level for my outdoor hardy fuchsias just in case we get a severe frost.

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