PLANTS
FOR A DRY GARDEN
In
my early years of horticultural training at Balfour Street Trades
school, Kingsway Technical
College,
then at Chelmsford Agricultural College we learned how to create a
garden and grow crops on all kinds of soils. For low lying wet soils
it was waterside plants, bog and ponds with a range of plants that
enjoyed those conditions.
Delosperma nubigenum |
Many areas in north west Scotland on heavy clay soils with high rainfall have problems, but rhododendrons, azaleas, turnips, swedes, kale and cabbages all just love it once some soil amelioration and drainage are attended to. Gardens down in the south east can be on deep peaty fen soils that are great once drained. Some coastal locations on sandy soils needed plants that could grow on dry soils and tolerate salt water spray. However it is not just soil type that affects plants but also climate which changes from north to south as well as west to east. Up in Tayside we miss out on all of these heatwaves enjoyed by those in the south, but we also miss out on all the rain which arrives in the west of Scotland. Training in horticulture covered all of these variables over the UK, but today we also have additional problems with climate change and very
Dianthus Doris |
erratic
weather patterns that are hard to work with. After a very wet 2019
year we have just come through a very dry spring, with cloudless
skies and almost devoid of any rainfall from early April to mid June,
though we did get a wee April shower at the end of April. The garden
hose was in
constant use and even although
the weather forecasts promised a few showers for our area, they
Cordyline australis |
always
missed Dundee, except one thunderstorm arriving on 21st
June with gales and hailstones. That did help to add moisture to both
garden and allotment. However that long dry spell did make me think
on what changes I would make to the garden if dry conditions
prevailed. Over the years I have continuously added more plants and
removed those that died as soil and climate were not to their liking.
The 2010 severe winter killed out many plants, but then surprisingly
several came back to life a couple of years later. My palm tree
Cordyline australis (great for dry soils) died back to soil level but
grew back again after two years, however my well established date
palm never survived. Fuchsia Mrs Popple regularly dies back to ground
level but always comes back in spring. Many of my dry areas have been
improved by adding in garden compost to add fertility and retain
moisture. My garden is on a south facing slope with soil on several
levels retained by walls so there are many dry spots to find plants
for, especially in cracks in the wall as well as on top of it. The
landscape structure uses several flowering shrubs preferring dry
conditions such as lavender, rosemary,
Euonymus,
both the silver form, Emerald Gaiety, the golden leaved Emerald n
Gold, and the pink flowered Cistus purpureus. Plants with silver to
grey foliage which reflects the hot suns rays are
favourite
for dry gardens. Eucalyptus makes a very attractive tree and the
shrub Senecio with
Sedum spathulifolium purpureum |
yellow
flowers is superb on top of dry walls next to the succulent
Delosperma cooperi with purple flowers, and Erigeron with mauve
flowers all in flower in June. The brooms Genista Lydia, Genista
hispanica and Cytisus praecox will also thrive in dry conditions, as
will many garden Pinks such as Dianthus Doris. Down at ground level
the yellow flowered Delosperma nubigenum smothers the ground and can
also be grown in cracks in dry walls by pushing a few shoots into a
crack where it soon roots and grows quite happily. Both the ground
hugging Sedums and Sempervivum will be happy in crevices in wall as
well as on top. To add some colour in the summer months try a few
annuals
such as poppies, Livingston daisies, Nigella, Osteospermums, Nemesia
and Geraniums, but if dry weather prevails it will be back out with
the hose to make sure they thrive.
Wee
jobs to do this week
Remove grape vine sideshoots |
Tomatoes are usually
grown as single stem cordons with all sideshoots removed, and some
form of support is needed. Canes are often used or strong
polypropylene twine suspended from roof wires with the tomato cordons
twisted around the twine as they grow. Side shoots need removing
about twice a week. Grapes under glass also need removal of
sideshoots twice a week but outdoor grapes grow more slowly so remove
side shoots about once a week throughout summer.
END