START SEED SOWING

START SEED SOWING

Sowing tomato seed

The month of February has always been my starting point to begin some seed sowing. I grow vegetables for the kitchen and flowers to enjoy, but never got into exhibiting, otherwise my seed sowing schedule would have started in autumn. I begin in mid February with sweet peas and onions both of which like a long growing season, then at the end of the month the broad beans and tomatoes get sown. At this time of year they all need some warmth to germinate, so either use a heated greenhouse, or at least heat up a section to use and line the greenhouse with bubble polythene to

Pricking out tomato seedlings

retain heat. A small electric propagator is
a great help to get seed started and then once seedlings appear they can be transferred to a light warm windowsill or other area with heat and plenty of good light. Seedlings need to grow sturdy, and short jointed, so only give enough heat to keep them happy, but do not force growth as it is still early and if grown on a windowsill they can soon demand more space.

Sweet peas are usually soaked overnight and sown in cellular trays at two or three seeds per cell, or if the cells are small sow at one seed per cell. They are usually pretty fool proof so germination should be nearly 100% as there are very few pests or diseases around indoors at this time of year. Watch out for slugs and snails in the greenhouse as they have

Tomato Alicante

survived well in the mild winter.

Once the plants have a couple of leaves try and get them hardened off to go in a cold greenhouse or frame, then pinch out the growing point to encourage branching.

Onions can be sown thinly in a shallow seed tray then pricked out after germination or in a cellular tray of about 80 to 100 cells for one packet of seed. Seed quantity per packet depends on variety as

Onion Hytech ripening up

well as supplier. Treat onions the same as sweet peas for warmth and light. Once they have settled down and become established in cells keep them fairly cool, but frost free. They can be hardened off and ready to plant out in April. Onions can also be grown as sets without all this work, and now there are some really good varieties available as heat treated sets for planting on well prepared fertile soil on a good day in March. Hytech, Globo and Sturon are all good varieties.

Broad beans have large seeds so they are easily sown individually in cellular trays where they can

Broad Beans ready to plant

remain for a few weeks after germination. Frequently there are more seeds per packet than what you really need, so either make the packet last two years (a good Scottish trick) or keep a batch for a later sowing. These plants can go on land cleared from some overwintered Swedes, spring cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Swiss chard or kale. A good variety of broad bean is Giant Exhibition Long Pod.

Tomato seeds germinate in warm conditions then need continual warmth and good light to grow on into strong sturdy plants. They are not difficult to grow so sow thinly in shallow trays then prick out into individual small pots to grow on. They are perfect on a sunny windowsill for a short spell, but soon outgrow the space so need transferring into the greenhouse. They will be fine in an unheated greenhouse lined with bubble polythene, but if cold weather threatens then bring in a heater to keep them warm over night. This year I will be growing Alicante as my main crop plus my two very sweet cherries, the yellow Sungold and the red Sweet Million.

Festive Poinsettias and orchids keep flowering

Wee jobs to do this week

Plants brought in to the house to brighten up the festive season often have a long flowering period so do not be too quick to discard them once all the decorations are packed away. Indoor azaleas can be kept to flower next year, but need cooler temperatures in an unheated greenhouse, but keep them moist. Poinsettias retain their red bracts for a good couple of months so keep them moist but not wet and warm and away from draughts. Phalaenopsis orchids are very popular and come in all sizes and colours. These will last for several months, but do not overwater them. They hate standing in water, and in Scotland are fine in a sunny windowsill. I water mine about once a week and feed once a month, then after flowering they get transferred to a bright shower room.

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A FEW WINTER JOBS

A FEW WINTER JOBS

Even in the midst of winter there is always a wee job to do in the garden or involved in forward plans. So far the winter has been almost non existent and with temperatures frequently in double figures, and dry weather becoming the norm, there is no excuse for not tackling those outstanding gardening chores. Digging, shifting compost, pruning and repairs to paths, sheds and fences have given us the excuse to get out into the warm winter sunshine.

Give the glasshouse a thorough cleaning

Winter cleanup for the greenhouse

A warm dry sunny day is just perfect to give the greenhouse glass its winter clean up, removing dirt, algae, moss and bird droppings. Inside it helps to clear out all those spiders and any overwintering pests eggs. Check and fix door and window openings as sometimes dirt can build up causing difficulty. Clear out gutters as usually there is a fair build up of old fallen leaves and growth of moss.

Rhubarb crowns are now quite prominent so where they have been growing in the same spot for over three years, now is a good time to lift up the roots and replant the strongest of the crowns.

Lift Timperley Early Rhubarb

Rhubarb is a heavy feeder that also likes plenty of moisture so dig over the area deeply and add in as much compost or manure as you can as this will feed them for the next three years. Space the new crowns about three feet apart as they need room to grow, and do not take any stems from them in the first year to let them build up strength. Where you have spare crowns left over these can be forced to give an early crop. If you have a greenhouse with a bench in it, the space underneath the staging is a perfect place to plant the crowns. Space them close together then cover the sides with black polythene to exclude all light. The rhubarb will soon grow with the greenhouse added protection and natural warmth. They will be even better if the glass has been lined with bubble polythene of you have started the gardening seed sowing year early and put in a greenhouse heater.

Spread lime

Add lime to areas intended for planting the cabbages, turnips, Swedes, cauliflower, kale and Brussels sprouts. In the planned four year rotation this area is usually the one that had a potato crop on it last

Spreading garden lime

year. Lime raises the alkalinity making the soil less acid which suits the brassicas and discourages the clubroot disease. However as a further precaution some of us that have soil badly infected with clubroot have to resort to using only clubroot resistant bred varieties. So I will be growing cabbage Kilaton or Kilazol, cauliflower Clapton, Brussels Sprout Crispus and swede Invitation, Gowrie or Lomond.

Choose a windless day for lime spreading if possible as it is very light and can blow everwhere.

Chit potatoes

Chitting potatoes

We have had plenty of time to analyse last year’s crops, and check with other gardening friends to sort out the best spuds for 2017. Seed potatoes are now available in the garden centres, so as soon as you buy in your chosen varieties it is a good idea to start the process of chitting. Place the tubers in a shallow container such as an egg box with the rose end upmost and keep them in a light frost free room or shed. They do not need heat as we want to see short jointed wee shoots that are green and ready to grow after a couple of months.

Pruning climbing roses

Wee jobs to do this week

Finish off any pruning of fruit trees and bushes, roses and other shrubs, while they are still dormant.  Climbing roses often start to grow early February if they are on a sheltered wall, so they are always a priority. All plants differ on type of wood to flower and fruit so check out each ones needs before getting out the secateurs and loppers.

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SPRING BULBS AWAKEN A NEW SEASON

SPRING BULBS AWAKEN A NEW SEASON

Aconites

The winter in recent times never seems so long as it was in childhood days when the first snows came in November and skating on Dundee’s ponds started in December. The roads were busy with kids on sledges all January and February as there were not many cars on the road. These were the winters we thought were normal. Now come forward sixty or so years we did get a few snow flurries in January this year, but with temperatures in double figures over many days, our dormant bulbs think spring has arrived and they just won’t stop growing.

The race is on to see who can push up into the daylight first. Even tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and lilies are all visible, and the smaller bulbs such as chionodoxa, scilla, anemone blanda and grape bluebells are all in leaf. The grape hyacinths however usually start in late autumn to come into leaf and no amount of snow or frost seems to bother them.

Primroses bloom early

I have a drift of snowdrops growing in the shelter of a south facing wall which were in flower in December and continue throughout January and hopefully into February.

Aconites are not far behind, as the first flowers opened up in late January. I thought they would be later this year as my large drift got a fright when I decided to replant twenty cyclamen hederifolium amongst them as they both grow and flower at different times so should be happy with each others company. The cyclamen are still in leaf, but these should die down soon to leave the aconites free to flower and grow. Aconites have a short season and begin to die down by mid summer. This leaves the space free for the cyclamen to flower in early autumn before the leaves emerge and then they can grow in autumn and winter. Time will tell if they are happy companions.

Crocus in February

Crocus hybrids may be the bigger and more dramatic types but the crocus species flower about two to three weeks earlier. Although the individual flowers may be smaller than the hybrids, when growing in massed drifts the overall effect is quite stunning. There are many different types of crocus species but I always go for my favourites, Blue Pearl, Cream Beauty and Snow Bunting.

Crocus are perfect planted amongst deciduous trees and shrubs provided they get plenty of sunlight to open up the flowers fully. All my drifts of snowdrops and crocus increase every year as it is hard to resist buying a few more bulbs in autumn. Once drifts or clumps have been established for several years they can be lifted and split up immediately after flowering, to replant them in other spots where they will soon grow and multiply. Retain and scatter any seed that forms as these will all germinate and grow. The aconites are germinating now, taking advantage of this mild winter, so do not confuse them with weeds, (Sticky Willie and Ivy leaved speedwell are germinating now) and remove them.

Snowdrops in January

However be careful with grape hyacinths and bluebells as they are so efficient at growing from seed that if left alone they can be very invasive and will try to take over the whole garden.

Polyanthus and primroses in borders, tubs and pots are also confused by the mild winter so they are giving us an early bonus as they have come into flower in the mild winter. They are quite tough so provided a severe winter remains on the back burner they will hopefully continue to flower for a few more months.

Anna picking Kale

Wee jobs to do this week

Kale leaves can be picked throughout winter as they continue to grow. Take a few leaves from the tops of several plants so the plant is not weakened. After washing and a rough chop they only need steamed in a pot for a few minutes adding in some seasoning, garlic and ginger, then just before serving drizzle some olive oil over the top. It makes a delicious green vegetable that even kids love it. Surplus kale can be frozen for future use. Kale is high in fibre, packed with antioxidants, contains vitamins A, K and C and the minerals iron, calcium and magnesium and is now considered one of the top fresh health foods.

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GROW SOMETHING BIG

GROW SOMETHING BIG

Gardeners have always loved to rise to the challenge of getting the biggest plant possible. Once you have mastered the techniques of getting good crops many like to take it a wee bit further and then size does matter. Once it gets under your skin and results come in, the dedicated gardeners like to take their produce to the shows in open competition. However for most of us we are happy to grow a huge pumpkin or a very tall sunflower.

Pumpkin Hundredweight

These are the simple pleasures we use to get our young kids involved in a bit of gardening. With most plants it is simply a matter of dedication and attention to detail so each type can grow in a lavish world where everything it wants is laid on.

Dahlia Karma Gold

Start with well prepared soil, with good drainage and plenty well rotted compost added, adding extra fertiliser depending on plant then give irrigation as necessary and weekly feeding for the roots. Pests and diseases and weeds are not allowed so keep an eye on them and take action immediately.

Pumpkins and courgettes respond to maximum feeding, watering and pruning of excessive young shoots. You also need to start with a variety that likes to grow huge like Hundredweight or Atlantic Giant Pumpkin. Start them early in a greenhouse to give them a long growing season then allow plenty of space to grow but do not take too many fruits from each plant.

Onions are another favourite that need rich soil, feeding plenty of room and a long growing season, starting off with a good variety like Kelsae. Most gardeners would be very happy with outdoor grown large onions, but if you compete at shows then most likely the onions will be grown in pots or special beds in a greenhouse or tunnel. Avoid over watering as onions are very prone to white rot.

Onion Globo

To grow giant leeks is not easy as the techniques are kept closely guarded secrets, especially feeding and strains of exhibition varieties are often handed down from father to son. Germination is usually from an autumn sowing and plants potted up gradually in ever richer soil. They can grow outdoors but many prefer glasshouse or tunnel protection for better results.

Cabbage, cauliflower, Swedes and other vegetables all follow similar growing styles.

Potatoes are another favourite when going for size and the variety Amour will get you off to a good start. It has huge tubers for the show bench as well as a cracking baked potato.

Flowers are a different story when seeking a large head as some respond to rich soil with feeding such as sunflowers and dahlias, but others such as carnations, iris and lilies do not need rich soil, but good soil structure and free drainage is essential.

Lily Chelsea

Chrysanthemums and dahlias for exhibition or just for large heads require selecting the best varieties, growing them strongly and only growing one or two heads per plant so all the plants energy is concentrated in growing a large flower.

Sweet Peas grown for size are usually grown as single stem cordons. Ground preparation is essential, so select a site with very fertile soil and enhance this by taking out a trench in autumn and forking in compost or well rotted manure into the bottom. Leave this over winter but back fill with good soil ahead of planting in early spring. Seeds are sown in the greenhouse in autumn and grown on. Young plants are tipped after a few leaves then the strongest shoot is retained. Use six foot tall canes to support the cordons removing all side shoots and tendrils. Liquid feed weekly.

Spur pruning grape vine

Wee jobs to do this week

Grape vines grown both indoors and outdoors are best pruned between December and the end of January otherwise they are liable to bleed as the sap rises quite early in the season. Under glass they are grown as upright rods spaced about 18 inches apart and 6 feet tall. All sideshoots are cut back to one or two buds. This system is also fine outdoors, or grown with a fan shaped permanent framework as long branches are given ample space. Again all shoots are cut back to a couple of buds. Commercially vines are grown on the Guyot system of pruning where fruiting laterals are only kept for one year then replaced. There are some excellent You Tube videos on this technique.

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