FINISH OFF WINTER TASKS

FINISH OFF WINTER TASKS

The mild but wet winter will hopefully be ending soon and once the soil starts to dry out we can catch up on all those jobs kept on the back burner. My priority is to finish off the winter digging put on hold as the soil was always too wet and we never got any light frosts to firm up the surface.

There was plenty of good well rotted garden compost for those areas needing fertile soil, especially onions, leeks, potatoes, cabbage, cauliflower and beans. Sweet corn, courgettes and pumpkin also need a lot of compost but as they all get planted in late spring there is still time to compost and dig over their patch then sow a green manure of clover or tares. This has plenty of time to grow before it gets trampled down and dug in a fortnight before planting. I have always had fantastic results after a green manure crop, as the roots really break up the soil and allow aeration as well as adding humus and nutrients.

Many areas are just not ready to dig as my late sowings of autumn salad leaves have continued to grow and provide fresh leaves all winter, so they will remain in place till they run to seed.

Beetroot left in the ground has kept brilliantly so I was able to harvest as required, but now it is beginning to grow so it will be lifted for the kitchen, and once partially cooked can be frozen for future use.

Cabbage and cauliflowers for spring use are looking great, and some will be ready very soon, though I still have some autumn cabbage which overwintered just fine. Just as well as my winter cabbage January King was a complete disaster. They were not happy with the mild winter and most have now run to seed. The few that hearted up were a magnet for slugs as January King does not have a solid heart at ground level and slugs can easily set up home in the spaces between leaves and stem. I will not grow that variety again.

Rose bushes and climbers take advantage of any mild winter to start growing at the first opportunity, so pruning had to be done in January to be completed by the end of February. Anna managed to get a small bunch of rose flowers for the house that had survived the winter.

Apple tree pruning has also been completed and now it is the turn of my Victoria plum to have its crown reduced in height so I have less need to climb the tree at harvest time. Anna gets a wee bit anxious when I reach the top of the ladder then have to climb a bit more as there is always some fantastic fruit at the end of a long branch that just have to get picked.

Hopefully I am far enough into the season so that silver leaf disease is less likely to infect the pruning cuts.

My peach tree will also get some pruning to create fruit spurs closer to the framework as well as some formative pruning to maintain its fan shape against the south facing fence. I will then give it two fungicide sprays a fortnight apart to keep peach leaf curl at bay.

This years vegetable and flower seed order has been delivered, so I can now set up my propagation programme to remind me of the best times to sow each type. In a normal year I would be sowing tomatoes, onions and lobelia towards the end of February. However since my greenhouse got blown down in the December gales this is not going to be a normal year for me. My hope is that my new greenhouse will be delivered and erected before the end of March. Windowsills can take a fair bit of young plants, while we await this new greenhouse. If the mild weather continues my fifty odd geraniums can go outside as they are quite tough, but my fifty odd tuberous begonias are not so hardy, and there is a limit as to how many plants you can get on a windowsill.

Tomatoes and lobelia this year will have to be sown a few weeks later.

I have also ordered my Hytech onions as sets this year, as they would need warm conditions early on if grown from seed.

Plant of the week

Rhododendron dauricum has to be the earliest rhododendron to flower. This year it started flowering in January and continued right through February. It is one of the parents of the very popular rhododendron praecox which is in flower now. In a mild year these early flowering shrubs are a great bonus, but if a frost catches them it will kill all the delicate flowers. Both these rhododendrons are small evergreen (R. dauricum is partially evergreen) bushes growing to about four feet tall that appreciate an acid moist, but free draining soil. They are very hardy, but a sheltered spot will help to protect the early flowers if a frost threatens.

Painting of the month

Arthurs Plot is my fourth acrylic painting showing a City Road allotment plot. Two paintings are winter scenes and two summer views with this one getting the modern contemporary treatment, where I concentrate on a loose colour balance of attractive shapes and no attempt to show detail.

I hope to show this painting with many others at the Angus Open Studio event in late May.

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COLOURFUL CROCUS

COLOURFUL CROCUS

The very mild winter has brought spring forward by several weeks so we can now enjoy those early flowers normally blooming in late March. My established drifts of crocus started to flower in mid February. They are very hardy and a covering of snow will not harm them, but a severe frost or cold gale will do them no favours. North east Scotland seems to have missed most of the very wet weather affecting the south and west of UK, so our crocus just need a wee bit more sun to open up the flowers and let us know that spring is just about here.

Crocus species grow in many different countries all over the world and now cultivated varieties have been bred to provide us with very colourful displays in spring for our gardens.

Local authorities have also recognised the benefits of enhancing the beauty of the environment by mass planting crocus in drifts where ever space allows in verges, roundabouts and parks.

When I worked in the Darlington Parks Department, many years ago, the council had established a “Crocus Walk” in a deciduous belt of trees along the main road into the town. Residents were very proud of this attractive feature and in autumn several offered funds to extend the crocus displays further into the town. The council matched this funding and over the next few years our Ring road grassed reservations received masses of crocus bulbs to brighten up the town in spring.

After flowering it is necessary to leave the foliage alone so it can build up the corm to a good flowering size for the following year. Usually a period of six to seven weeks is ample before the leaves can be removed. However in gardens where crocus is in border soil leave the foliage till they begin to go yellow.

The show begins with the crocus species flowering about two weeks ahead of the large flowering hybrids. Cream Beauty and Blue Pearl really go well together, and enhanced with the pristine white Snow Bunting. Add some stronger colours to add character such as Ruby Giant and Whitewell Purple.

However it is the larger flowered Dutch hybrids that really add impact to spring displays. Although there are many varieties the most popular come down to a handful that are hard to beat.

Yellow Mammoth must be the biggest and brightest yellow, Joan of Arc the cleanest white, Flower Record a strong purple and Pickwick has always been my favourite striped crocus.

Autumn crocus

Some species flower in autumn such as Crocus pulchelus, Crocus zonatus and there is several varieties of Crocus speciosus in blue and violet colours. These all flower in late summer to  autumn before the leaves appear. They are all very hardy and leaves emerging in autumn will be fine over winter. Do not cut or remove the leaves until they die down in late spring.

They can be planted in drifts in borders or the lawn in good well drained soil and prefer full sun, though some dappled shade will still be fine. Planting can be done by splitting up overcrowding clumps immediately after flowering, or plant fresh new bulbs in summer.

The saffron, crocus sativus also flowers in autumn and has been in cultivation for centuries. However it was not grown for its flower displays but for the world’s most expensive spice, saffron.

Each flower produces three long red coloured stigmas which are removed and dried to make saffron. It is a very slow process as you need a lot of flowers, which usually only last about two weeks to gain any useful quantity of product. Most of the world’s saffron is produced in Iran which has the best climate and soils for its production.

Plant of the week

Cordyline australis is a half hardy palm tree from New Zealand. It is often started off as a young plant used to give height to a summer bedding flower display. It will establish and grow fairly easily, but it is best to lift up and replant in a large pot to overwinter in a frost free greenhouse. In its second or third year it can be left outdoors where it can grow and survive if in a sheltered spot. If the next few winters are mild it will survive and eventually grow to ten to twenty feet before it flowers. These are not desperately attractive so probably best removed as they can weaken the tree.

However every so often we get a hard winter which will kill the top right back to ground level, but do not dig it out as the roots usually survive to throw up new shoots within the next couple of years. My twelve years old cordyline reached ten foot tall but then died back in a severe winter. It survived to produce a cluster of five shoots which are now six foot tall. As this winter has been very mild it should live another year or more with the promise of global warming.

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A VERY WET WINTER

A VERY WET WINTER

It seems a very bizarre situation when I start to write about what is happening in my world as a gardener but I always begin with a weather report. The performance of the garden seems to be completely at the mercy of the weather, so I am sure that my thoughts will resonate with many readers who will also be finding the same peculiarities in their garden.

By now we are all very aware that winter with snow and frost has just not arrived, but that has not stopped the rain from falling. Television has given us horrendous pictures of those affected by continual rain and floods that never seem to drain away. Up in north east Scotland it has been wet, but, fortunately we have missed the worst of the bad weather. It has stopped all attempts to catch up on winter digging, but we can still harvest our vegetables, get on with pruning, repairing fences and gale damaged greenhouses.

A couple of days of dry weather for us up north allowed us to get all our prunings of the fruit bushes, shrubs and roses shredded up at City Road allotments. I was a wee bit concerned about shredding roses and gooseberries because of the thorns, but the machine totally shredded all stems including vicious thorns, so I was left with nice heaps of organic materials perfect for mulching or adding to the compost heap.

Even in the middle of our winter period a trip to the allotment is not a lonely venture as the place does not lack activity from numerous keen gardeners enjoying this mild weather getting on with repairs to fences, sheds, greenhouses, or just meeting with fellow plot holders to discuss the weather.

I can still harvest my autumn salads, numerous winter vegetables, and the beetroot left in the ground is still perfect. Garden plants are again as confused as us, but as the temperatures are very mild for a winter period they are responding as though spring arrived in January. I just hope that winter does not have a sting in its tail and land us with a late severe frost just when the garden is beginning to burst into growth.

Summer flowering half hardy fuchsias got left in the ground as I forgot to lift them.  They should be dead, but oh no, they are starting to grow again. It is far too early for them, but if we are lucky and winter gives us a miss they could be a star turn.

Snowdrops usually flower in February. In a good year they will flower in early February, but a lot later in a bad year. Mine were flowering in early January this year and looking great.

Aconites have been well budded up ready to open but still needing some warmth to expand the petals. The aconite drift is also showing a great germination of last year’s seed dispersal as well as growth of the one year old seedlings which will only produce one leaf and no flower. However most of these will flower in their third year. Patience is required then well rewarded.

Jasmine and hellebores are all flowering as there is no frost to slow them down. The very early flowering rhododendron dauricum has been brilliant in full flower from January. Normally it is quite early, but can suffer if hit by a frost but not this year. Hammamelis molis is also taking advantage of the mild spell with bushes covered in beautiful yellow scented flowers.

Indoor activities

This is an excellent time to take cuttings of grape vines from greenhouse as well as those outdoors. While I am experimenting with a range of varieties for our Scottish climate the bushes do need pruning at this time of year and these pruning are fine for use as cuttings for new stock.

All you need is a small piece of stem with one or two good buds and insert them into well drained rooting compost in a propagator with some bottom heat. They should root after a couple of months, then they can be lifted out for potting up into small pots. They should grow fairly quickly so will need further potting up later on.

Christmas cactus flowered in early December, but then I dried them off for a winter rest. However this year they decided to have another go at flowering so now I am getting the second flush, so it is back to watering, full sun and a wee bit of feeding.

Geranium cuttings taken last autumn and potted up in November, are now needing spaced out as they are growing and need to be kept sturdy. I pinched out all the tops to make them branch and give then an occasional feed to keep them happy.

Plant of the week

Ophiopogon planiscapus nigrescens is a low growing form of evergreen black grass. It can form large drifts as it expands through short rhizomes which root as they grow. It is very unusual and quite striking. I have a drift in my winter border in front of red stemmed dogwoods where it provides a great contrast in winter colour. It is even better in February when the snowdrops planted underneath the plants appear as the contrast of white snowdrops against black grass is brilliant.

Ophiopogon will grow on most soils but prefers moist rich soils and is happy in full sun or shade.

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PLANT ASSOCIATIONS

PLANT ASSOCIATIONS

February is a good time for new plant purchases as the garden centres are usually well stocked up and with spring just around the corner everyone is eager to get into the garden.

We tend to buy a new plant on impulse when we find a gem in flower, then get it home and look for a spot to plant it in. We don’t always choose its best location, though most plants can be transplanted at a later date.

Another aspect to consider is the relationship of the new plant to other plants around it. A garden display will have more impact if all the plants at their best can be brought together so that at any time of year there is always some corner that catches the eye.

We link bedding plants together for colour harmony and contrast, such as blue petunias with yellow marigolds when we plant up tubs, hanging baskets and flower beds. Rose beds are often planted in front of the taller shrub roses with climbing roses on a fence at the rear, as they will all give their best together in summer.

Heathers can also be grouped together in drifts and will flower from late winter with Erica carnea  till autumn with the bright pink Calluna H E Beale. These associate very well with dwarf azaleas and the taller deciduous azaleas. Evergreen rhododendrons and camellias belong to this group in the same flowering season, but are best kept separate as they are bigger and could overpower the smaller bushes. I like to add dwarf pines amongst heathers and dwarf azaleas and if the low growing drift needs a bit of height I use the white stemmed birch, Betula jaquemontii.

Another plant to add height to the heathers and azaleas is the large flowered lilies growing five feet tall with exotic perfume. They all grow very well together and the lilies add interest at a time when the others are out of their flowering season.

Maritime locations may have a need for salt spray tolerant plants such as red hot pokers, senecio, cistus, escallonia, fuchsia, gorse, brooms and many shrub roses.

Herbaceous borders are in flower from early spring with the Doronicums till autumn with the Michaelmas daisies, so group together those plants with a similar flowering time. Iris, oriental poppies and pyrethrum all flower in early summer and create a great impact when grown together.

Add bulbs

There is hardly any part of the garden that cannot be enhanced with bulbs. Where ever plants lose their leaves in winter there is scope to plant bulbs to flower, grow, then die down before the existing plants need the space. Both deciduous shrubs and herbaceous plants allow scope for snowdrops, crocus and aconites and if the shrub comes into leaf late then daffodils and early tulips can be used.

Yellow flowering forsythia looks great with the very early fosteriana tulip Red Emperor planted underneath it as they all flower together in most years.

Snowdrops are usually the first bulbs to flower in February. These can go anywhere in sun or shade and if you can put some under a south facing wall they will start to flower in late January in a mild winter like this year. They also look great planted in between a drift of the black grass Ophiopogon where the white flowers sit on top of the black foliage in complete contrast.

Crocus however will need full sun to open up the flowers in early spring. I grow these all over my garden, but they really add colour at ground level to my coloured stem border of cornus, kerria, willow and red stemmed maple.

My orchard of apples and plums has mass plantings of bluebells which create a woodland garden effect then die down as the fruit trees begin to grow.

Anemone blanda and chionodoxa can carpet the ground in blue flowers in late spring, then quickly die down in summer so they are the perfect match for planting underneath cyclamen hederifolium which emerges in late summer, flowers in early autumn, then retains its leaves over winter, but loses them in spring just when the other bulbs need the space.

The ultimate flower show in spring is the combination of tulips with pansies, Forget me nots and wallflower where you select for colour contrasts and height. Later on these bulbs can be planted in other parts of the garden.

Plant of the week

Camellia japonica Adolphe Audusson has blood red flowers in March and April. The bush can grow quite tall and prefers a woodland fringe location with light dappled shade, but will also be happy in full sun as long as it does not get early morning sunshine. This can destroy flower buds on a frosty morning. I grow one bush in the open and one against a west facing wall, but I make sure it never dries out. Another great Camellia is the pink variety Donation.

Painting of the month

Arthurs Plot is my fourth acrylic painting showing a City Road allotment plot. Two paintings are winter scenes and two summer views with this one getting the modern contemporary treatment, where I concentrate on a loose colour balance of attractive shapes and no attempt to show detail.

I hope to show this painting with many others at the Angus Open Studio event in late May.

END