WINTER PRUNING

WINTER PRUNING

Although summer may have been a washout for many of us the autumn has been remarkably dry so digging has been a treat as the soil was never wet for walking on and now as we start the

Well pruned apple tree

pruning no damage is being done to the soil surface. Pruning in winter is another task I try to complete before the end of the year. Bush roses put on a late flurry of blooms in mid November but by the end of the month they had lost most of their leaves and were ready for the secateurs. Autumn fruiting raspberries Polka and Autumn Bliss both decided to offer me some fresh and very attractive fruit before the loppers came out, but I am afraid their sweetness had gone so there was no reprieve.

Pruning autumn raspberry Polka

On the allotment site I do all the pruning of trees, fruit bushes and roses at the same time, and then I can bring out our shredder for the wood and add the shreddings to my compost heap.

Raspberry Glen Fyne and Glen Dee are both summer fruiting so it only the old fruiting canes that we prune out at ground level, then the remaining canes that grew this year are tied in to the straining wires using a running knot, spacing them out about four inches apart along the top wire. Autumn fruiting varieties are very easy as all the canes are cut back to just above ground level. New canes start to grow again in spring and these will fruit from late summer onwards.

Pruning fig bush

Brambles are similar to summer raspberries as they fruit on the long shoots produced the previous year, so it is a matter of cutting out all this years fruiting wood. The remaining shoots, still fairly green, will be quite long so normally they are looped between support wires to save space.

Gooseberries can be quite prolific croppers so pruning is done to remove branches too close to the ground to prevent soil splashing on the fruit, and pruning out some shoots growing in the centre to aid picking, especially on those varieties with wicked thorns.

Blackcurrants fruit best on young shoots of one and two years old so cut back any older branches to encourage more young shoots to grow.

Spur pruning grape vine

Redcurrants fruit on spurs so I retain a framework of about nine main shoots growing up from the crown and all smaller shoots growing on these are cut back to a couple of buds. However it is beneficial to replace two or three of these main shoots each year to keep the bush healthy. Replace them with young new shoots as they appear near to their position.

Figs grown outdoors up north are usually planted against a south facing wall or fence so prune shoots growing too far away from the wall. Also remove very low growing branches as these will produce figs that get eaten by slugs.

Pruning roses

Apples and pears have very different pruning needs based on the form of tree as well as rootstock, and plums are similar but should not be pruned in winter due to the risk of infection by silver leaf disease. Pruning will vary depending on whether you are growing a dwarf bush, large tree, cordon, espalier, stepover or fan shape so look up the pruning requirements as appropriate.

Grapes under glass are usually grown as upright rods spaced about 18 inches apart. These produce fruiting spurs about six inches apart up the rod. The fruiting laterals grown from these spurs are cut back to one or two buds near the rod from which the next year’s crop will come.

Birch tree with lower branches removed

Roses flower best on young shoots so always look to cutting out old shoots providing there is plenty of new growth to take their place. Shrub roses get minimal pruning and climbers are the same as bushes but on a larger scale.

Birch trees grown as specimens with white bark need removal of lower shoots to expose the brilliant white stems that are very attractive in winter once all the leaves fall off.

Blackberry cuttings

Wee jobs to do this week

Blackberries can be propagated from cuttings taken from the ends of young shoots about four inches long placed in free draining compost to be well rooted by early spring. They can also be grown from root cuttings about four inches long laid just below the surface of compost in pots.

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EARLY WINTER JOBS

EARLY WINTER JOBS

As we leave autumn behind, and winter has not yet set in there are always a few dry sunny frost free days when we can get into the garden to catch up on all those wee jobs put off for a few days.

Deciduous trees and shrubs are now

Fresh Vegetables in December

dormant and most have shed their leaves, so these need to be gathered up and added to the compost heap. Old leaves from cabbages, kale, sprouts, swedes and winter cauliflower are also better cleared up as leaving them in place encourages slugs.

Cauliflower Clapton

The herbaceous border plants are also dormant so they will also need tidying up by cutting back old stems and removing weeds and any supporting canes and strings. Once the border is cleaned up take the chance to check over clumps of plants such as iris, pyrethrum, doronicum, kniphofia, peony, delphinium, shasta daisies and oriental poppies and where ever they have spread too far, dig up and divide them. Replant the strongest plants usually growing around the perimeter, into freshly dug and composted border soil. Delphinium crowns are a favourite food for slugs so drop a few pellets around these, but most of the others are usually safe.

Doronicum Little Leo

Although the summer up north was very wet, the autumn has been a lot drier so winter digging has been proceeding without wet soil clogging up the boots and wellies. My main difficulty has been separating out freshly added composting material on my compost heap so I can get into well rotted compost buried deep underneath. Unfortunately I don’t have room for two compost heaps.

Oriental poppies

However we are still on target to complete winter digging before Christmas, although those areas with a good covering of clover and vetch green manures can be left for digging in later next year. Green manure crops will continue to grow and take in nutrients from the soil, so these are not washed away by the winter rains and snow, but after digging in these nutrients are released back into the soil as the green manure crops rot down for the benefit of the next crop. If the land allocated for late crops such as pumpkins, courgettes, sweet corn or French beans has a green manure crop on it, do not dig this in till a couple of months before planting as that is plenty of time for the cover crop to rot down. For these heavy feeders I also add plenty of compost while digging proceeds.

Winter lettuce Hilde

There is nothing to beat a trip to the allotment on a cold frosty day or when there is a covering of snow and harvesting a good selection of fresh vegetables full of nature’s goodness. Brussels sprouts are not just for Christmas and can be delicious chopped up in a stir fry, or even sliced and added to the bacon, egg, tomato, mushroom and sliced apple for a good fry up. Winter cabbage, kale, Swedes, leeks, parsnips and cauliflower are all quite hardy and can last throughout the winter.

So far my beetroot is quite happy outdoors, but I will keep an eye on the forecast and bring them indoors if the mild winter turns out to be wishful thinking.

Winter hardy lettuce, spring onions, radish and rocket can also be grown to supply fresh salads in winter if grown in a sheltered spot or in a cold greenhouse after the tomato crop has been cleared.

Early winter is also a good time to check for any repairs needed to fences, gates, uneven paths, leaky sheds or doing some shed renovations for extra shelves, tables, seats, racks to hang tools on and cupboards for seeds, chemicals, fertiliser and hand tools.

Potting up rooted geranium cuttings

Cuttings of geraniums, fuchsias and other plants taken at the end of summer will have rooted and now be ready to pot up. Use small pots as they will not grow much now but need plenty of light and just enough warmth to keep them frost free over winter.

Wee jobs to do this week

Check over stored apples, potatoes, carrots, beetroot, onions, dahlias, begonias, gladioli,

Checking pumpkins

pumpkins and any other crops, bulbs, tubers being kept over winter in frost free sheds, garages or other places. Apples can suffer brown rots that would spread if not removed. Potatoes, beetroot and carrots can sprout if temperatures are too high. Pumpkins are very erratic in storage as some can go off quickly and others last perfectly till spring.

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PLANT ROSES

PLANT ROSES

Roses were at their most popular about fifty years ago. No garden was complete without a few roses, and Dundee Parks department propagated them by the thousands every year for brightening up the parks, town centre and outdoor landscapes. They were also functional used to deter trespass with varieties like Rosa omeiensis pteracantha with

Anna relaxing beside rose Gertrude Jekyll

spectacular thorns totally covering the stems. As air pollution improved over the years rose diseases gained a foothold as the pollution had acted as a mild fungicide. Unfortunately so many varieties suffered severe loss of leaves from blackspot, rust and mildew that they were not worth growing. Rose breeders

Rose Dearest

were left with the task of finding new varieties with strong disease resistant foliage while still having attractive flowers and a scent where ever possible. I have grown hundreds of different varieties over the years, and discarded very many, but there is still a good roses well worth growing and every year new varieties appear in nurseries and garden centers to try out.

Roses come in many forms from miniature to bush (floribundas and hybrid teas) then shrubs, climbers and ramblers, so you can choose a plant to suit any occasion. Always buy from a reputable source and keep your receipt and the label. I have had several purchases where the plant did not reflect the label. One lovely red bush rose turned out to be a disease prone pink rose, and a dazzling yellow Julie Goodyear from a local garden centre does not seem to exist except in my garden.

Rose Julie Goodyear

Roses can be grown against walls, fences, up pergolas, or in borders as miniatures, bushes or if you have plenty of room free standing shrubs. Make sure you read about the ultimate size as some can be quite enormous. My climbing Mme Alfred Carrier wrecked my six foot fence then stretched well over twenty feet in every direction. However it is such a beauty that I cut it back to young shoots about six feet long so it can have another lease of life for a few more years.

I grow a deep red Dublin Bay on my south wall of the house and it flowers all summer from ground to twelve feet tall making a spectacular show, but unfortunately it has no scent. Another shrub rose I converted to a climber is the pink scented Gertrude Jekyll which never lets you down. It gets a wee bit of mildew, but nothing severe and greenfly can be a problem, but a couple of insecticide sprays sorts them out. It is a real show stopper on the house wall on

Sophie with scented roses

our patio.

Another of my favourite shrub roses, Ispahan has quite disease free foliage and is a mass of old English pink flowers in summer, but it can grow ten feet tall so either keep it pruned or if you have the space let it grow naturally.

Bush varieties are numerous in all colours and dependable varieties include the pinks Dearest and Myriam, the red scented E H Morse,

Climbing rose Dublin Bay

the bicolors Piccadilly and Rose Gaujard, the golden yellow Arthur Bell and Julie Goodyear (if it exists), and my best orange is Dawn Chorus.

Roses are propagated commercially by budding, but the home gardener can propagate roses with hardwood cuttings about 9 inches long, taken in the dormant season and lined out six inches apart with half the cutting buried in the soil. They should be ready for replanting the following winter.

Cultivation
Roses grow best on fertile clay soil provided it is well drained. Always dig deep and add plenty of compost as the bushes will last ten or more years. Plant about eighteen inches apart and add some fertilizer in spring to give growth a boost.

Amaryllis just potted up

Wee jobs to do this week

Amaryllis bulbs can be potted up now for flowering 7 to 10 weeks later. Pot them up in pots just slightly larger than the bulb using good potting compost. Leave one third of the bulb above the compost surface. Keep in a light warm spot and do not over water. The strong flower spike arrives before the leaves. After flowering keep the plant watered and fed to build up bulb strength so it can flower the next year, but it needs a good two months dormant period so slowly dry off in September. It can spend the summer months outdoors in a sheltered spot.

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NOVEMBER IN BLOOM

NOVEMBER IN BLOOM

Dahlia My Love

In the days before global warming, we gardeners could rely on the seasons to behave normally so we could organise our gardening activities on schedule. The summer season normally started with a dry warm June followed by just enough rain to keep plants growing, and then there was the July dry spell for the berry picking season and a cold but dry October for the tattie pickers. Summer flowers died down end of October so we could remove the bedding plants and replace them with spring flowering wallflowers and tulips. Winters usually arrived with a cold snap early November and I can remember skating in my early youth on several Dundee ponds in December.

Fuchsia in November

Today it has all changed. This year is said to be the hottest on record, but at my end of Dundee, the rains started in June and continued till November. In fact I think it is still raining. So where was that long hot summer? Onions got wiped out with white rot, and potatoes got blight, but green leafy plants were luxuriant. Flowering plants sulked for months, petunias and French marigolds died out and my roses got severely infected by black spot, but plants do not give up easily so the survivors are refusing to die down. It seems they want to make up for lost time!!!

This should be the beginning of winter, but walking around the garden you would think it is still summer. There are flowers everywhere.

Primroses

My tulip bulbs and spring flowering pansies and polyanthus (all covered in flowers) wait to get planted in tubs, but my tuberous begonias and geraniums in the tubs are in full flower and I just can’t pull them out. A batch of bright red geraniums planted in the shelter of a south facing wall still think it is summer, and as I have no plans to replace them I will just leave them to see how long they will last. On a previous occasion in this spot we got a very mild winter and they came through winter unscathed. Time will tell how they do this winter.

Fuchsia Mrs Popple has just loved this wet year and is still a mass of flowers, to be followed by a crop of fuchsia edible fruit with

Nerines

a sweet spicy flavour.

Rose varieties with more disease resistant foliage are having a late flush of flowers, especially the orange Dawn Chorus and yellow Arthur Bell. The white scented Margaret Merril has suffered blackspot, but is still flowering.

Spray chrysanthemums

Nerine bowdenii always puts on a great autumn show and the clump just seems to get bigger every year. It is very reliable and to see it at its best take a trip to Botanic Gardens as there is a huge drift by the glasshouses.

Dahlias would normally have been blackened by an early frost but mine are still giving a great display, so I’ll leave then a wee bit longer, but keep an eye on the weather forecasts.

Chrysanthemums are also continuing to flower so lifting them is also going to be a late task.

Pink orchid

Mahonia Charity is more associated with a late winter flower, but not this year as it is coming into flower now, and my snowdrops which should still be dormant are now pushing up into the light so they could yet again be in flower in December.

Back indoors I have a lovely pink Phalaenopsis orchid with a long raceme of flowers which is quite normal, except that I bought this one in full flower at the City Road Allotments Open Day in August and it just continues to flower. Four months of flowering is quite remarkable.

However my Christmas cactus, Zygocactus truncatus appears to be behaving normally as I have started to water it to bring on the flowering period just ahead of Christmas.

Wee jobs to do this week

Rhubarb

Lifting rhubarb

is now dormant, so after clearing off all dead foliage mature clumps, often six to ten years old can be lifted and divided. Discard sections from the middle but there should be plenty strong crowns around the edges. Select crowns with two or three strong buds and replant into well manured freshly dug soil, spacing them about three feet apart. Any spare crowns can be left on the surface to get some winter chill and then used for forcing to give an early crop of bright red sticks.

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HEAVENLY RASPBERRIES

HEAVENLY RASPBERRIES

My first experience of fresh raspberries goes back to the early fifties as this wee scruffy lad joined a band of other kids from the new housing estate St. Mary’s and headed into the countryside to pick some berries for which we would get paid a hefty price of a half penny for every pound picked. Pickers came from Dundee, surrounding villages and many travellers. Most of us got a few berries to take home for jam.

Polka raspberries

Summer berry picking stayed with me till I was old enough to get a full time job on leaving school, but the pleasures of the berry fields never left me so my garden always had a row of raspberries as well as some strawberries. At first it was the tall Norfolk Giant variety, but then along came Malling Jewel as an excellent main crop with a heavy yield. As time went on these were replaced with the very popular Glen Ample but then as climate changed and summers got wetter raspberries began to suffer the root rotting disease, phytophthora.

This event changed everything.

Raspberry tastings at James Hutton Institute

The east of Scotland had the perfect climate and soils for outdoor raspberry growing, but root rot was spreading rapidly so changes were needed. Initially it was the custom to plant canes on the top of ridges to help drainage, but now raspberries are grown in large pots under polythene tunnels with automatic drip irrigation. It was recognised that the older varieties were very prone to root rots so a breeding programme was started to find more resistant varieties for commercial growers.

Picking a few raspberries

Raspberries were so popular that it seemed sensible to extend the season by bringing in early varieties under tunnels as well as autumn fruiting varieties to have fruit well into October or even November in a good year. Autumn Bliss has had a great run for over ten years but now newer varieties such as Polka and Autumn Treasure give us far bigger fruits and picking made easier as the canes have no spines. These autumn fruiting varieties also seem to be less affected by root rots and yellow rust so assist breeding better varieties. However it is not just about disease and larger fruit as flavour is just as important before a new variety is released. Glen Fyne and Glen Dee have good berry size, good disease resistance and excellent flavour, so are perfect for home gardeners as well as commercial growers.

Planting raspberry cane

Raspberries are still grown in rows in the garden, but make sure the ground is well drained. As they will be left for ten years or so, it is worthwhile double digging a metre wide strip along the row, incorporating plenty compost to both subsoil and top soil. Plant the canes in the dormant season, about one to two feet apart and give a dressing of fertiliser to get them started. They will need strong posts with two wires to attach the canes to once they are two years old.

Summer fruiting raspberries fruit on canes produced the previous year, then in winter these are cut out and the new canes tied in with a running knot to prevent the canes moving in windy conditions.

Raspberry rust

Autumn fruiting varieties fruit on canes grown the same year, so after harvesting these canes are totally removed and fresh canes will grow the following spring.

Main pest is raspberry beetle maggots that mainly affect summer fruiting varieties, but sprays and hormone traps are available. The main disease of root rots affects older varieties so use disease resistant types. Raspberry yellow rust can also be devastating on some varieties, though newer varieties have some tolerance. If the rust is not too severe remove affected leaves in spring and burn them.

De Cayenne peppers

Wee jobs to do this week

Pick pepper De Cayenne as the season is now over. They can be stored for a few weeks in the fridge or washed, sliced removing the seeds and dried off for the freezer. This chilli is quite hot so be careful and use sparingly, though the health benefits of these hot chillies are very impressive having vitamins A, B, C and E and the minerals potassium and manganese. Hot peppers boost metabolism, circulation and blood flow and is said to increase energy levels with beneficial long term weight loss.

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HOME GROWN WINES

HOME GROWN WINES

In early youth, once you are old enough to sample a wee bit of alcohol you go over a threshold with a new experience that stays with you, but is forever changing as life evolves. As you are still very young there are a lot of lessons to learn, like,

Cutting a bunch of grapes

men drink beer, old men drink whisky and women drink wine. Way back in the sixties when the pubs shut at ten o clock (later on it changed to 10.30pm) as it was too early to go home we went for a meal and

Grape Brant

as we learned to be posh we got a bottle of wine. Following the fashion of the day, this would be Blue Nun, Mateus Rose, or even Liebfraumilch. However, on a trip to Melbourne visiting family my hosts were horrified to hear I drank wine as I got told all Aussie men only drink beer. As time marched on into the seventies, back in UK beer and wine consumption was not gender based and I got back to both beer in the pub, but wine with a meal. I enjoyed wine but these were poorer times so there was a surge in home brewing where you could make your own tipple with a few demijohns, some home brew equipment and a bit of foraging for fruit, such as elderberries, apples and brambles. Home brewing was very popular with shops stocking everything you need, then home brew magazines gave you the recipes and I even went to evening classes for wine making when I lived in Darlington. As my few demijohns bubbled away, then settled down to clear, it was very difficult to

Grape Rondo

contain your patience to leave the wine alone to mature so there was always a bit of early sampling. Eventually the good times arrived and we could have a bottle of wine with our meal on both Saturday and Sunday. Now that was living life to the full. However this was a learning curve, and not all fruit makes good wine so both the raspberry and strawberry went down the sink plus a few others. There was only one answer, and that was to get an allotment and grow my own wine crops. So I started with red currants, white currants, blackcurrants, gooseberries and apples, but had to have trips to the countryside to get my elderberries. They all make fantastic wine, especially if you can lay it down somewhere cool for three years.

Moving on to more recent times, I now grow saskatoons and the chokeberry, Aronia Viking which is extremely high in antioxidants so it makes a great health drink with a wee kick and a fantastic flavour. As climate changes and Scotland gets a wee bit more global warming

One year old wine clearing

(I haven’t really noticed any difference, other than the summers are wetter and there’s not much snow in winter) now could be the time to see if we can grow grapes up north. After trying many varieties my best bet has been Regent, Rondo and Brant which has small bunches, but are very sweet, juicy and black. All of these fruits can be frozen for future use to spread out the work load and demand on demijohns.

Aronia makes a healthy drink

All the normal fruit wines have great flavour, but need added sugar to boost the alcohol strength and once they come out of the fermentation bucket (4 to 5 days) I add some grape concentrate to add vinosity. Modern yeasts can give quite high alcohol strengths, but I try to keep mine at 11 to 12% alcohol and ferment right out for a dry wine as this keeps the calories down.

However wines made from home grown grapes have to stand on their own merits so no additional grape concentrate, but we need more sunshine to encourage the grapes to produce more natural sugars.

Checking the strength of the wine

This year my greenhouse Solaris and Siegerrebe picked in August gave a specific gravity reading of 1074 so needed some sugar to give a strength of 11% alcohol. Similarly my outdoor grape Brant left till the end of October gave a similar reading so the yeast also needed a sugar boost, but my vine yielded 36 pounds of grapes so I got 2.5 full demijohns after racking off the sediment.

Now I just need to wait three years before sampling begins!!!

Wee jobs to do this week

Dahlia drying off

Chrysanthemums will now be finished flowering and dahlias likely to get cut down by the first frosts so lift them both up for storing. Chrysanthemums are labelled and boxed up to grow on slowly in a cold greenhouse, so keep them watered , but not wet, and keep a lookout for greenfly.

Dahlias are dried off and stored in a frost free shed in boxes. They do not need any soil.

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PUMPKINS

PUMPKINS

Pumpkins have been associated with Halloween for a long time, but there is a magic moment when you grow your own massive pumpkin fruit. My father introduced me to pumpkin growing when I was about ten years old hoping to get me interested in a spot of gardening. However the soils left over from the builders in the new St. Mary’s housing estate was not all that clever and without any additional manure or compost the resultant tennis ball sized pumpkins did not impress anyone. However fathers, peas, turnips, lettuce, radish and cabbages plus strawberries and raspberries helped to give me the gardening bug.

Picking pumpkins

Twenty years later it was my turn as by then I had my own garden and a huge allotment with plenty access to manure, leaf mould and compost, and with two young daughters to entertain, many hours were spent on the plot growing, planting and harvesting all sorts of vegetables and fruit. Wendy had the responsibility of making sure her sunflower reached as high into the sky as possible

Spooky lantern

whereas Val took on the task of growing a huge pumpkin. This did not get picked till Halloween and then the task of creating a scary lantern took a fair bit of time. As darkness descended the lantern turned spooky, but my young lady got so much fun from the event that she performs this ritual annually though now she has her own young daughter to teach the skills of creating spooky lanterns.

Way back in time to my early years before pumpkins were invented our Halloween lanterns were created from the biggest Swede turnip we could find, but life moved on and before long Swedes were replaced with monster sized pumpkins.

I think I have grown pumpkins as part of the normal range of fruit and vegetables to be grown on an allotment or garden for food. They are also a great challenge as when your patch of five or six orange balls starts to swell up into massive pumpkins the garden gets noticed.

Pumpkins are relatively easy to grow provided you give them plenty of feeding and watering and plenty of room to grow. They are gross feeders so they get the lion’s share of compost during the winter digging

Pumpkin flower

. Select a variety of seed known to produce huge fruits such as Hundredweight, and sow in individual pots in warm conditions in late April to early May. They soon germinate and grow so pot them up once they have filled their first pots and do not be in a hurry to plant out as they are still very tender and can be affected by cold weather and strong winds. June is a good month for planting out spacing them about a square metre apart. Water the plants in and add a mulch of rotted compost to retain moisture and add extra feeding as it rots down over the season. The plant will grow very vigorously with many side shoots. Although initially there will be plenty of flowers, they do not all produce fruit so wait till you have two decent fruit forming on each plant and then start to prune back over vigorous shoots if they are barren. Keep weekly feeding all summer so by mid October your prize pumpkins will start to impress.

Val's first pumpkin

As all my family have flown the nest our pumpkins are food (not lanterns) as over the years Anna has tested out numerous recipes to use up our pumpkins, so we just love this taste of autumn. My favourite is still roasted

Roast pumpkin slices

pumpkin slices sprinkled with some seasoning and nutmeg, and then drizzled with honey at serving. Pumpkin soup, risotto, pumpkin pie, pasta and cakes and the puree can be used in numerous dishes and surplus frozen for future use. However pumpkins can be stored for four to five months in a cool utility room. Pumpkins as well as being very tasty are just full of healthy goodness packed with fibre, and vitamins A and C and minerals. Seeds can be roasted and eaten, but do not save them for sowing in case they have been cross pollinated by bees visiting nearby courgettes, or you will end up with weird courgette shaped pumpkins.

Wee jobs to do this week

Geraniums at the end of October

Geraniums planted in a sheltered spot against a south facing wall will continue to flower well into autumn so don’t be in a rush to remove them when clearing out the last of the summer bedding plants. If we get another mild winter they can survive so take the chance and enjoy the flowers while they last.
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END OF SEASON TIDY UP

END OF SEASON TIDY UP

As autumn arrives and the summer flowers fade, and crop harvesting is well under way, we theoretically enter a quiet phase of gardening, (I’m told) so take the chance to carry out the end of season tidy up.

Tidying up the borders

October is my target month for the final weed clearing task from allotment plot, rose, shrub and flower borders and along paths and fence lines. At this time of year hoeing is not very effective as the sun is not strong enough to shrivel weeds up so hand weeding is preferred and weeds can go on the compost heap. Then as leaves begin to fall rake them up and put them on the compost heap. On the vegetable plot some plants lose the lower leaves such as Swedes, kale and sprouts so remove these to the compost heap. If you do not have room for two compost heaps, try to keep fresh additions separate from old rotted down compost as this will be in demand as the winter digging starts. Any land cleared of crops can get composted and dug over to leave it rough for winter to allow frosts to break down the soil surface. It is now too late to sow any more green manure crops, but if tares, clover,

Six month old compost

field beans, mustard or winter rye have been sown there is no rush to dig these in unless they were sown early and are likely to start flowering. In which case trample down the plants and dig then in carefully so they get completely buried and left to rot over the winter.

Late autumn to early winter is a good time for getting out the secateurs, loppers and a saw as fruit trees and bushes, tall shrubs, roses and raspberries will all need pruning. If you have access to a wood shredder put all the pruning through the machine and the resultant fine or course shreddings will be invaluable for allotment paths, mulching fruit trees or adding to the compost heap.

Prune grape vines

In the glasshouse tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and grapes will now be at the end of their season, though I have picked some Black Hamburg grapes in early December a few years back. This year most will have been picked by the end of October. Take the chance to carry out a good clean up. Wash the glass both inside and outside, removing any moss and algae from overlapping glass panes. Give the gutters a good clean as they usually fill up with moss and leaves and all sorts of debris. Repair any broken panes of glass and make sure the sliding doors runs smoothly.

Bring wooden patio tables indoors as there won’t be much opportunity to eat outdoors for quite some time. I store ours in the garage, which also gives me the chance to clear that place up to make room for tables and storage of fruit, flower bulbs and corms and vegetables. Check over the patio tables and give a coat of varnish to preserve them for another year.

Put out the bird table with fresh seeds

Towards the end of the month we put out the bird table for winter and top up with fresh seed. However be guided by the weather as there may well still be plenty of natural berries on trees and shrubs and if the winter is mild birds can still find insects, grubs and worms in the soil.

The lawns should just about be finished growing now so give them a last cut, but set the blades slightly higher than normal so they have some growth to see them through winter. Now is a good time to get out the springbok rake and give the lawn a good scarify to remove thatch and moss. It also improves the lawn if you spike it with a garden fork every six inches to a depth of at least four inches. Brush in a sandy lawn compost to fill the holes, improve surface drainage, and add a sprinkle of a long lasting lawn fertiliser.

Check lawn edges and repair any broken bits to keep the lawn looking pristine.

Wee jobs to do this week

Winter cauliflower

Plant spring cabbage, Durham Early or Duncan and cauliflower Aalsmeer from sowings made in July and August. These will overwinter and provide fresh spring greens and hearted cabbage and cauliflower in spring. Space cauliflowers about 18 inches apart each way, but cabbages can go closer if you intend to harvest alternate plants earlier as spring greens. Duncan is very versatile so can be also grown as a summer and autumn harvested cabbage by altering the sowing date.

Protect crops with netting against pigeons and put a few slug pellets down as they have thrived in this mild but wet summer.

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