HERBACEOUS PLANTS

HERBACEOUS PLANTS

Himalayan Blue Poppy

The garden is in a constant state of change and every plant or group of plants have their moment in the spotlight. I try to group different plants together when I see them at their best, providing the soil and location suits them. In winter we had the snowdrops, aconites and the yellow flowered Jasmine put on a terrific display letting us know that the season had started. This was followed by the crocus, anemone blanda and chionodoxa.

Iris Jeanne Price

Then the other larger bulbs started to flower with daffodils and the early tulips. Planting early flowering tulip Scarlet Baby next to my yellow saxifrage was a great combination brightening up a few square metres in early April. Spring this year was very dry and cool, though there was plenty of sun as we went into May. This was perfect weather for tulips, and as I have flooded huge areas of garden with tulips there was mass displays everywhere. May is one of the best months for rhododendrons and azaleas so these came alive as the tulips needed a rest to build up their strength for next year. Rhododendrons and azaleas are similar in display to the bulbs as they can provide a brilliant splash of colour over many weeks as one variety has its moment then another takes over as the centre of attraction
.

Iris Spellbreaker

All the while the herbaceous border is biding its time as it knows that come June it will hold centre stage. Already the oriental poppies and flag iris have started to open and delphiniums are stretching upwards to the sky. They will need support as do many other herbaceous plants. You can buy purpose made supports or use canes and green twine, or even tree and shrub prunings if they are big enough and can easily be pushed into the soil.

Red peony roses may be the common peony and there are other brilliant varieties but the common red puts on a great display and is very reliable. If the soil and location suits them they can spread almost to nuisance levels, and even after digging them out there is alway

Red Peony

s a wee root that just refuses to die off. Mine have spread all over my mini apple orchard of four trees (but with ten varieties through grafting) however they provide a dazzling display to follow the apple blossom so we just leave them alone and let them have their moment. None of them get tied up so the taller ones fall over onto the ground but the main shoots then head upwards or one falls onto the next peony for support.

Day Lily

Oriental poppies fall into the same category and never get any support as they grow in huge groups and tend to support each other. They also like to take over garden space if allowed.

Pyrethrum, however is one of those plants that only needs support if you grow taller varieties.

Then there is a wide range of herbaceous plants that are not so tall so need no support and are perfect in drifts towards the front of the herbaceous border.

Iris, Geum, Hosta, Shasta daisies and Himalayan Blue Poppies are all in this category as is the

Oriental lily Chelsea

Euphorbia Fireglow and the sulphur yellow Euphorbia polychroma.

There are many border plants that may not be herbaceous in growth but plants like pinks and border carnations can add to the display especially if flowering times can be co-ordinated together. Then again more colour can be added with bulbous plants such as gladioli and lilies. The oriental lilies are perfect as they can be bold, add height, and the scent is heavenly, especially the pink Chelsea.

The show goes out in mid summer as the tall deep blue delphiniums steal the show with the white Shasta daisies at their feet. To add to the show I have a large drift of lavender adjacent.

Wee jobs to do this week

 

Thinning radish

Many fast growing root vegetables such as turnip and radish and salad vegetables such as lettuce and rocket will have germinated with the warm weather in early May, especially if you have been able to give them a watering so now they will need thinning out if the germination has been good and rows liable to suffer from overcrowding. Thin radish to an inch apart, as they do not need a lot of space but all others are best at a couple of inches initially then about six inches later on once they have put on some growth.

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RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS

RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS

Growing rhododendrons and azaleas got into my blood in the early years of training around Dundee’s parks and nurseries. A large drift of Rhododendron praecox which is one of the earliest to flower was planted in a bed of pure leafmold in Dawson Park and seemed to thrive.  We also had a sunken garden planted with a range of the dwarf Japanese Kurume azaleas. As a young kid on low wages this was brilliant as these grew very easy from cutting. Other plants had to be grafted or sown from seed which then took ages before they flowered.

Azaleas in May

Then a few years later in Camperdown Park I saw the range widen to cover flowering from spring till summer. We were blessed with plenty of experienced gardeners so soon I was taught how to layer some of the large flowering hybrids, but got moved to another park before my layers had a chance to root. It was a hard life being an apprentice gardener but very rewarding.

Mixed azaleas

I have never been without rhododendrons and azaleas ever since, and a trip to see the massive range growing naturally in the woodlands around Glendoick nursery is a must at this time of year. They also stock a huge range of all types for sale and this being one of their specialism’s the quality is very high.

Rhododendrons and azaleas thrive in a well drained but moisture retaining woodland acidic soil. They do not tolerate lime in the soil. They need to be moist at all times so really thrive in the west of Scotland in areas of high rainfall but provided drainage is good.

They also enjoy dappled sunlight as well as shade and sunny positions provided it retains moisture.

Rhododendron dauricum

To encourage good growth and flowering, it is a good idea to add a light mulch of well rotted leafmold or ericaceous compost in late autumn or early winter. However they are not heavy feeders so do not give them any fertiliser as it may scorch the leaves. They do not require any pruning, but it does help to remove old flower trusses before they start to produce seeds.

Most rhododendrons are evergreen, but azaleas come as both evergreen and deciduous. Height depends on species and varieties as some may grow into small trees whereas other are ground hugging dwarfs. Plant hunters over the last two hundred years have gathered thousands of different species from all over the world especially China, Tibet, Burma and Japan. Then nurseries and plant breeders got to work and now we have any amount of different plants to choose from to suit every situation

Japanese Azalea Hinomayo

. Many deciduous azaleas have a wonderful scent.

Today many large flowered hybrids are grown as grafted plants, but can be propagated by layering once the bush is big enough with branches at ground level, but it is a slow process so patience is needed. The easiest forms to propagate are the dwarf evergreen azaleas, which can be layered or rooted from cuttings. Short pieces can be inserted around a shallow pot with a mixture of ericaceous compost and grit for good drainage. Place a large polythene bag over the pot to retain a moist atmosphere and rooting will occur after a few months.

When it comes to selection of the best to grow consider whether you prefer large bold plants, or ground cover, scent, autumn colour especially good with deciduous azaleas and how much space is available. Everyone has their own favourites and as new varieties are coming out all the time the choice is endless. Rhododendron praecox is a must for me as it is very early, but then Elizabeth a low growing bright red was favourite for a long time, but suffers from mildew.

Potting up sweet corn

Wee jobs to do this week

Pot up sweet corn seedlings into their final pots. Grow on for a few more weeks to produce a strong plant for planting in early June. Plant in square blocks as this helps with the wind pollination with spacing about 18 inches apart. As planting occurs later than other crops I take the opportunity to sow the space with a clover green manure to improve fertility, but it needs digging in at least two weeks ahead of planting.

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PLANT PROTECTION

PLANT PROTECTION

The last week in April saw a return to cold winds and frost so care had to be taken to protect vulnerable plants. Salads, cabbages, dahlias and even my onions from seed which had been hardening off for the last two weeks all went back to the greenhouse for a few days. Tomato and peppers need warmth so a heater had to be used in the greenhouse while the cold weather persisted. Today we all enjoy holidays in warmer climates and seeing and enjoying tropical crops we would just love to have some of these back home. Garden centres and mail order nurseries are also encouraging us by supplying a few specimens to try, and if we accept that global warming may arrive some time soon then we might just be successful with a few exotics.

Low polythene tunnel over strawberries

However, back in Scotland most will likely need some protection from cold winds and frosts.

This is where hedges, shelter belts, walls and fences all play a part. I use every south facing wall and fence at home and on my allotment to try and grow some exotic with a challenge.

Protection against birds and butterflies

A greenhouse with or without heat is almost an essential for tomatoes, cucumbers, pepper and melons. If you have a large greenhouse with plenty of space try a kiwi. Figs and grapes were normal under glass for a long time, but now there are varieties that will give a decent return outdoors though benefit with a warm south facing wall or fence. Fig Brown Turkey and grapes Rondo, Phoenix and Regent are all showing promise outdoors but I need a few more years to see how they fare. Cape gooseberries are another exotic that can crop outdoors in a good year if given some protection for a few weeks after planting, but also benefit from a good summer.

Protecting cabbages

In times past it was the practise to have a cold frame on the south side of all greenhouses to harden off plants and even grow some early crops with a bit of protection. Today these are less common as plastics take over.

Polythene tunnels which are a lot cheaper than a permanent greenhouse are becoming very popular.

They come in all sizes from massive and any length of walk in tunnel to low polythene tunnels and some quite small. Although most are purchased ready for assembly, some people prefer to build their own with a supply of timber and heavy duty polythene.

Coming down in scale some keen gardeners are quite happy to use plastic bottles with the bottoms cut off and then placed over individual plants to give protection in the early stages of growth.

Fleece over early peas

Protection is also needed from pests which like to lunch on our plants. From caterpillars on our cabbage, cauliflowers and sprouts to pigeons on the same as well as our young peas and then  the blackbirds devouring our strawberries, saskatoons, blueberries and red currants. Even our cherry

trees are not safe and difficult to net due to size, and under glass the wasps have discovered that my new grape Seigerrebe is quite sweet, so put word round their mates and now becoming quite a problem. When you purchase nets to keep birds off crops you are just as well to get one with a finer mesh to use to keep butterflies off the brassicas.

Glasshouse protection

Down at ground level success with carrots would be impossible without fleece protection to keep of the carrot fly, but I wish I could educate our local allotment site cats that these are not

hammocks to sleep on or to be used as a scratching pole.

Breeders have given us a great thornless gooseberry, but now our local fox can get into the bushes so sturdy netting has to be put in place as they ripen, or he will eat the lot.

Wee jobs to do this week

Red begonias for blue tubs

Start to collect summer bedding plants for tubs beds and hanging baskets as the spring flowers pass their best and we start to think about our summer displays. Looking ahead I have retained tuberous begonias from last year as well as fuchsias and geraniums in shades of red, pink and white. I will buy in some petunias, impatiens, French marigolds and trailing lobelias. I keep spare hanging baskets so I can plant up summer ones, kept in the greenhouse for a couple of weeks to establish, while the spring baskets full of pansies continue to flower.

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LATE SPRING GARDEN UPDATE

LATE SPRING GARDEN UPDATE

This must be the driest April for a long time. Scotland gets rain in the west, and the north, but seems to miss the Tayside region. The hose has been in use as even my tulips have been wilting. Aconites and Pulmonaria have all fallen over with the drought. On the positive side weed killing has been easy as the cool dry wind just shrivels up any weeds after some hoeing. It has also been a very cool month, so again the show of tulips and daffodils have lasted a long time. Mixing red and purple tulips into my drift of yellow Doronicums has been a great success as timing of both plants was perfect. Early dwarf tulips have been planted in my rose bed giving a terrific show of solid, but mixed colour, and as the roses are taller than the tulips they are all happy together.

Broad beans and onions ready for planting

Garden shrubs started flowering in early March with my Rhododendron praecox, then out came the Forsythia, Magnolias, Kerria, Berberis darwinii and Camellias with Donation a star performer. My red Camellia Adolphe Audusson has suffered with the drought and many of the top branches are dying off. Must keep that hose busy.  It seems to be a great spring for flowering trees, especially cherry blossom, but apples, pears and plums are also all in full flower.

Berberis darwinii

My new peach tree Avalon Pride which is sold as peach leaf curl resistant has a fair bit of this disease, and with a few very small insignificant flowers opening in late April, I reckon I will be back to the supermarket for my fresh peaches this summer.

Saskatoon bushes suffered from the mild winter, as these plants like a severe winter chill to ripen up the wood and produce a flower crop. They are very late this year and not covered in blossom as in previous years. However my fig tree did enjoy the mild winter and most of last years immature figs have survived and should help to produce an early crop.

Weird weather is playing havoc with my strawberries. They are all beginning to flower but the earliest one out was my perpetual Albion which is usually my autumn strawberry. Last spring I

Apple Red Falstaff flowers

bought in some of the new giant strawberry Colossus, but it never gave me a single berry. This year it is the end of April and still there is no sign of any flowers, but plenty of growth.
Maybe I have to be very patient before I can sample these colossal berries.

On the vegetable plot planting is well ahead with broad beans and onions, and leeks are quite sturdy. Potatoes are now pushing through the ground, but as frost is always a danger the rows need to be well earthed up. Early peas are also growing so they also get earthed up and soon they will need support and protection from pigeons.

Good potential grape crop

I use the pruning’s from my stooled willow shrubs for support and tie in a couple of rows of black thread which seems to keep the pigeons at bay.

Sowing continues with maincrop peas, salads, carrots and turnip. The carrots will have some fleece cover to keep out the carrot fly.

The greenhouse is getting a bit quieter as plants are moved outdoors for hardening off, but I keep some space available in case of an overnight frost, when plants can be returned for protection.

Chrysanthemums are fairly hardy so can remain outdoors but my dahlias are not so hardy, so they remain fairly mobile. Peppers and tomatoes have both been potted up to put on some growth before planting in permanent positions.

Camellia Donation with birch tree

The grape crop is giving signs of great potential as most spurs are laden with up to three bunches of grapes per shoot, so some thinning will be necessary to maintain a good berry size.

Wee jobs to do this week

As weather begins to warm up garden pests become more active. Slugs and snails can devastate young tender seedlings so watch out for them and take action or put down some pellets. Greenfly are active on new shoots of roses and pansies so if they become a problem use an appropriate insecticide. They can also be a problem on the tips of young growth on blackcurrants and gooseberries. Also watch out for sawfly maggots on gooseberries.

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