THE GARDENING YEAR ENDS

THE GARDENING YEAR ENDS

As the gardening year draws to an end, now is the perfect time to look back and compare our hopes and expectations of creating a great garden with this years choice of plants and seeds, but working with the weather which is not always in our favour.

Best wishes for 2018

Gardening activities are an ongoing process, so success in one year is often the result of the previous years planning and purchasing of plants, bulbs and seeds. If I was to choose the best success of 2017 it would have to be the spring bulbs with tulips making a massive impact. The previous autumn I had bought in a batch of the tall bright red Apeldoorn and Golden Apeldoorn Darwin hybrid tulips to

Tulips with wallflower

make a bold splash of colour, and also a large batch of dwarf early tulips to plant amongst my roses. As they are dwarf and early they would not interfere with the roses which would grow strongly once the tulips were over. The display was immense but weather was on my side. The spring was dry and sunny but never hot so the show lasted from early April till the end of May, then in June the rain came on and lasted for months. This year may have gone down as one of the warmest on record, but not up north. We got a really wet summer which wiped out my sweet Spanish onions with white rot. Next year I will go back to established varieties.

Lily Casa Blanca

Crocus Yellow Mammoth

However my tubs of geraniums and tuberous begonias put on a brilliant and very long lasting display. Impatiens and lobelia were also favourites but petunias all died out from lack of sun and too much rain. Azaleas all enjoyed the spring weather with a mass of colour for a couple of months.

Although there was a lot of wet weather and we may have missed out on heat waves, it was warm all summer so many crops excelled. Berries of all kinds produced heavy crops and right into late autumn for my star performer, autumn fruiting raspberry Polka.

Red tuberous begonias

Strawberries were also cropping well except my new variety Colossus, which was not all that big and cropping was very light. It is getting dug out along with blackberry Reuben which is very highly rated in catalogues but just does not live up to the description. The fruit is not big and the flowers are so late that most of the fruits do not ripen. Bramble Helen is hard to beat and very early fruiting in August, so it would be good to find one that crops into autumn. The search goes on.

Sarpo Mira potatoes

The warm wet summer suited all the green leafy vegetables from lettuce to cabbages, kale and Brussels sprouts as well as all the root crops, especially potatoes. They grew so well early on that even those that got blight still produced a heavy crop. Star performer was Sarpo Mira with massive spuds, but Amour which also cropped well turned out to be a poor keeper as shoots started to grow after a couple of months in store. Afraid it is off the list for 2018.

We have a big problem with clubroot disease on the allotment so I use a lot of resistant varieties of cabbage, cauliflower, sprouts and Swedes. Made a sowing of clubroot resistant swede Invitation and standard variety Best of All. None showed any sign of disease

Berries in abundance

but the best roots came from the cheaper Best of All. Clubroot resistant cauliflower Clapton was sown in mid March then again in mid May. All were successful but as the whole row is ready at the same time, next year I will sow smaller rows with three sowing dates a month apart.

Grape vines

Black Hamburg grapes

both outdoors and under glass had a growth year, though continual summer pruning kept them under control and there was no wasp problem this year as they were discouraged by the continual rainfall. Outdoor varieties Solaris, Muscat Bleu and Polo Muscat all failed to impress so after several years of trial they have all been dug out. Rondo, Regent, Phoenix and Brant all gave good crops so they will remain for a few more years. Grapes gave me four demijohns of wine, but I had to add some sugar to give me 11% alcohol, as the autumn sun did not last long enough to sweeten up the grapes. I will rest the wine for three years in a cool room to let it mature.

Wee jobs to do this week

Impatiens rooted in jars of water

Pot up Impatiens cuttings taken in autumn and rooted in small jars of water. They soon grow roots, but water has no nutrient value so potting them up will get them growing strongly. Keep them watered and warm and even in winter they can begin to flower and add colour as a pot plant.
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TIME TO RELAX

TIME TO RELAX

The festive season is well under way with Christmas just a few days away, but the keen gardener finds it hard to hang up the spade, put away the secateurs and relax, as there is always just one wee job needing attention.

Merry Christmas from John and Anna

The Christmas tree has been brought out from the attic, dusted down and put in place and I had every confidence the ten year old Christmas tree lights would still work. Decorations now add a wee bit of festive cheer around the studio. That’s one job done.

Festive poinsettia

Sorting out some festive flowers was not easy. My Christmas cactus which is normally in full flower by now has totally failed to produce a single flower. My pink Phalaenopsis orchid has dropped its last flower, but considering it was in full bloom from August it has done us proud, so it can have a rest in a warm light room and with some occasional feeding it will build up strength for next year. Amaryllis is a great Christmas flower, but our bulb was started too late so will miss the festive season, though it is looking

Green manure ready to dig in

very strong with two large flower spikes. So it was down to the supermarket for a decent poinsettia to give us a splash of colour. There are plenty around of all prices and sizes, so choose a good one as they can last many weeks.

Winter weather has come early this year, but the autumn was quite dry so winter digging has just about been completed apart from the areas with clover and tares green manure which I may leave till the end of winter. This gives them more time for root growth which helps to break up the soil and improve drainage. Nutrients retained in the foliage will be released back into the soil in spring after they get turned in and rot down.

Winter veg in abundance

Garden and allotment weeds were also removed in late autumn and falling leaves collected for the compost heap. The compost heap was getting quite big so it got a final turn over so that fresh material can rot down and be ready for use next spring.

The weather has been kind to winter vegetables so there is an abundance of brussels sprouts, cabbage, leeks, beetroot, swedes, parsnips and kale but my cauliflower Clapton grown from a late sowing were brilliant, but now all used up as they do not keep long once the curds have formed.

The garage has been perfect for storing onions, apples and pumpkins, and the freezer is still bulging with strawberries, raspberries, blackcurrants, gooseberries, saskatoons and chokeberries, so we have plenty of choice for the Christmas dinner.

To keep up the festive spirit, a few demijohns of three year old homebrew got bottled up as we will expect a few guests over

Selecting some refreshments

Christmas and New Year so it is hard to know where to start. Will it be the saskatoon, blackcurrant, gooseberry, apple or chokeberry wine or my special Brant grape wine. Three years ago when I started this brew the yeast on the Brant grapes got really excited and kept fermenting as I gave them a bit more sugar, but after reaching 19% alcohol the campden tablets came out to put a stop to the fun. I think this may be better for New Year rather than Christmas.

Now the garden, the store and the vegetables have been sorted out we cannot forget our feathered friends outdoor, so we keep the bird table topped up. The Joseph Rock rowan is loaded with berries which a thrush and our local blackies go to war over, but good luck as any time now we expect swarms of waxwings to appear and clear every berry in site. However I see nearby cotoneasters are just laden with berries so this should keep birds fed for a wee while longer. As I go through stored apples and pick out any with signs of brown rot, these can be cut in half and left out for the birds which seem to enjoy the change in diet.

Browsing through catalogues

Wee jobs to do this week

As most of the wee jobs have now been taken care of we can relax with a wee drink and ponder seed, fruit and flower catalogues to give us inspiration for new ideas and new plants to try out for 2018 to replace those which never reached the grade in 2017.

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WINTER COLOUR

WINTER COLOUR

Winter has arrived as Carolina sweeps over the land and many of us wake up to a covering of snow plus a few trees, fences and sheds blown about. No doubt this will be followed by more

Rowan Joseph Rock

winds, snow and frost.  Gardening is now enjoyed looking out of a window from the comfort of a warm room. Then a few days later the sun comes out and we can wander round the garden enjoying a bit of winter colour, and catching up on winter

Outdoor fuchsia

digging, raking leaves and repairing any wind damage. Having had many years to indulge in planting up those must have plants, I have also been careful with their placement in the garden design. I know there are many winter days when you just can’t get out so the design is geared to making those areas in front of windows attractive in winter.

The summer flowers have gone and the spring ones yet to appear but there is still a few shrubs flowering in winter as well as plenty berries and plants with brightly coloured stems

maple

and variegated foliage. It is during the winter months that these plants are appreciated as they have no competition.

Flowers

Holly

In some sheltered spots the spring bulbs are pushing up into the daylight with promise of flowers to come. Snowdrops are favourite to appear early in recent years with mild winters I have a small drift that are at their best in full flower at the end of December. They are assuming we are getting another mild winter as the flowers are four inches tall and just about ready to open up.

Snowberry

Back at ground level the heather Erica carnea is adding a bit of pink and white in the heather garden, and the yellow Jasminum nudiflorum grown against a fence is always very reliable as it will flower even when covered in snow.

Mahonia Charity

Mahonia Charity

will grow at least six foot tall and is at its best in December covered in bright yellow sprays. Another shrub, the Fuchsia Mrs Popple continues to flower even though we have had several frosts, but although very welcome at this time of year, its days will be numbered. Last winter it suffered a lot of die back, but it always recovers strongly in spring.

Foliage

Euonymus

Some evergreen shrubs are winners in winter with their variegated foliage such as the gold and silver Euonymus which is also brilliant for ground cover smothering any weeds under its branches.

Houttuynia is more vibrant with red variegation but not such a good ground cover, and it tends to meander well beyond its allocated spot. Ivies come in a wide range of colours and are great for sunless dark and damp corners, but they need an annual trim to control their spread.

Brightly coloured stems

Cornus

The winter garden would not be complete without a range of red, yellow and grey stemmed Cornus, as well as Salix britzensis, Kerria and the grey stemmed Rubus giraldianus. Grow all these as stooled shrubs cutting all growth back to just above ground level at the end of March.

Berries in abundance

Cotoneaster frigidus

Cotoneasters are the most prolific plants for berries in red, orange and yellow. The Firethorn, Pyracantha is also dazzling when covered in bright red or orange berries, and for white berries try the snowberry, Symphoricarpos. Holly is also great for berries but can grow quite large.

Wee jobs to do this week

Topping up the bird table

Cold weather combined with frost and snow can give our garden birds a problem finding food, though there is still plenty berries on cotoneasters and some rowans. This is a good time to put up the bird table and a few feeders with some quality seeds. Birds are fussy eaters (except pigeons which will eat everything) and if you have put out some cheap seed mixtures you will find some types getting left behind. Put out a dish for clean water and if weather is frosty make sure water is warm enough to last a few hours before freezing up. Keep all water dishes, bird tables and feeders cleaned regularly.

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WINTER PRUNING

WINTER PRUNING

Although summer may have been a washout for many of us the autumn has been remarkably dry so digging has been a treat as the soil was never wet for walking on and now as we start the

Well pruned apple tree

pruning no damage is being done to the soil surface. Pruning in winter is another task I try to complete before the end of the year. Bush roses put on a late flurry of blooms in mid November but by the end of the month they had lost most of their leaves and were ready for the secateurs. Autumn fruiting raspberries Polka and Autumn Bliss both decided to offer me some fresh and very attractive fruit before the loppers came out, but I am afraid their sweetness had gone so there was no reprieve.

Pruning autumn raspberry Polka

On the allotment site I do all the pruning of trees, fruit bushes and roses at the same time, and then I can bring out our shredder for the wood and add the shreddings to my compost heap.

Raspberry Glen Fyne and Glen Dee are both summer fruiting so it only the old fruiting canes that we prune out at ground level, then the remaining canes that grew this year are tied in to the straining wires using a running knot, spacing them out about four inches apart along the top wire. Autumn fruiting varieties are very easy as all the canes are cut back to just above ground level. New canes start to grow again in spring and these will fruit from late summer onwards.

Pruning fig bush

Brambles are similar to summer raspberries as they fruit on the long shoots produced the previous year, so it is a matter of cutting out all this years fruiting wood. The remaining shoots, still fairly green, will be quite long so normally they are looped between support wires to save space.

Gooseberries can be quite prolific croppers so pruning is done to remove branches too close to the ground to prevent soil splashing on the fruit, and pruning out some shoots growing in the centre to aid picking, especially on those varieties with wicked thorns.

Blackcurrants fruit best on young shoots of one and two years old so cut back any older branches to encourage more young shoots to grow.

Spur pruning grape vine

Redcurrants fruit on spurs so I retain a framework of about nine main shoots growing up from the crown and all smaller shoots growing on these are cut back to a couple of buds. However it is beneficial to replace two or three of these main shoots each year to keep the bush healthy. Replace them with young new shoots as they appear near to their position.

Figs grown outdoors up north are usually planted against a south facing wall or fence so prune shoots growing too far away from the wall. Also remove very low growing branches as these will produce figs that get eaten by slugs.

Pruning roses

Apples and pears have very different pruning needs based on the form of tree as well as rootstock, and plums are similar but should not be pruned in winter due to the risk of infection by silver leaf disease. Pruning will vary depending on whether you are growing a dwarf bush, large tree, cordon, espalier, stepover or fan shape so look up the pruning requirements as appropriate.

Grapes under glass are usually grown as upright rods spaced about 18 inches apart. These produce fruiting spurs about six inches apart up the rod. The fruiting laterals grown from these spurs are cut back to one or two buds near the rod from which the next year’s crop will come.

Birch tree with lower branches removed

Roses flower best on young shoots so always look to cutting out old shoots providing there is plenty of new growth to take their place. Shrub roses get minimal pruning and climbers are the same as bushes but on a larger scale.

Birch trees grown as specimens with white bark need removal of lower shoots to expose the brilliant white stems that are very attractive in winter once all the leaves fall off.

Blackberry cuttings

Wee jobs to do this week

Blackberries can be propagated from cuttings taken from the ends of young shoots about four inches long placed in free draining compost to be well rooted by early spring. They can also be grown from root cuttings about four inches long laid just below the surface of compost in pots.

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EARLY WINTER JOBS

EARLY WINTER JOBS

As we leave autumn behind, and winter has not yet set in there are always a few dry sunny frost free days when we can get into the garden to catch up on all those wee jobs put off for a few days.

Deciduous trees and shrubs are now

Fresh Vegetables in December

dormant and most have shed their leaves, so these need to be gathered up and added to the compost heap. Old leaves from cabbages, kale, sprouts, swedes and winter cauliflower are also better cleared up as leaving them in place encourages slugs.

Cauliflower Clapton

The herbaceous border plants are also dormant so they will also need tidying up by cutting back old stems and removing weeds and any supporting canes and strings. Once the border is cleaned up take the chance to check over clumps of plants such as iris, pyrethrum, doronicum, kniphofia, peony, delphinium, shasta daisies and oriental poppies and where ever they have spread too far, dig up and divide them. Replant the strongest plants usually growing around the perimeter, into freshly dug and composted border soil. Delphinium crowns are a favourite food for slugs so drop a few pellets around these, but most of the others are usually safe.

Doronicum Little Leo

Although the summer up north was very wet, the autumn has been a lot drier so winter digging has been proceeding without wet soil clogging up the boots and wellies. My main difficulty has been separating out freshly added composting material on my compost heap so I can get into well rotted compost buried deep underneath. Unfortunately I don’t have room for two compost heaps.

Oriental poppies

However we are still on target to complete winter digging before Christmas, although those areas with a good covering of clover and vetch green manures can be left for digging in later next year. Green manure crops will continue to grow and take in nutrients from the soil, so these are not washed away by the winter rains and snow, but after digging in these nutrients are released back into the soil as the green manure crops rot down for the benefit of the next crop. If the land allocated for late crops such as pumpkins, courgettes, sweet corn or French beans has a green manure crop on it, do not dig this in till a couple of months before planting as that is plenty of time for the cover crop to rot down. For these heavy feeders I also add plenty of compost while digging proceeds.

Winter lettuce Hilde

There is nothing to beat a trip to the allotment on a cold frosty day or when there is a covering of snow and harvesting a good selection of fresh vegetables full of nature’s goodness. Brussels sprouts are not just for Christmas and can be delicious chopped up in a stir fry, or even sliced and added to the bacon, egg, tomato, mushroom and sliced apple for a good fry up. Winter cabbage, kale, Swedes, leeks, parsnips and cauliflower are all quite hardy and can last throughout the winter.

So far my beetroot is quite happy outdoors, but I will keep an eye on the forecast and bring them indoors if the mild winter turns out to be wishful thinking.

Winter hardy lettuce, spring onions, radish and rocket can also be grown to supply fresh salads in winter if grown in a sheltered spot or in a cold greenhouse after the tomato crop has been cleared.

Early winter is also a good time to check for any repairs needed to fences, gates, uneven paths, leaky sheds or doing some shed renovations for extra shelves, tables, seats, racks to hang tools on and cupboards for seeds, chemicals, fertiliser and hand tools.

Potting up rooted geranium cuttings

Cuttings of geraniums, fuchsias and other plants taken at the end of summer will have rooted and now be ready to pot up. Use small pots as they will not grow much now but need plenty of light and just enough warmth to keep them frost free over winter.

Wee jobs to do this week

Check over stored apples, potatoes, carrots, beetroot, onions, dahlias, begonias, gladioli,

Checking pumpkins

pumpkins and any other crops, bulbs, tubers being kept over winter in frost free sheds, garages or other places. Apples can suffer brown rots that would spread if not removed. Potatoes, beetroot and carrots can sprout if temperatures are too high. Pumpkins are very erratic in storage as some can go off quickly and others last perfectly till spring.

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PLANT ROSES

PLANT ROSES

Roses were at their most popular about fifty years ago. No garden was complete without a few roses, and Dundee Parks department propagated them by the thousands every year for brightening up the parks, town centre and outdoor landscapes. They were also functional used to deter trespass with varieties like Rosa omeiensis pteracantha with

Anna relaxing beside rose Gertrude Jekyll

spectacular thorns totally covering the stems. As air pollution improved over the years rose diseases gained a foothold as the pollution had acted as a mild fungicide. Unfortunately so many varieties suffered severe loss of leaves from blackspot, rust and mildew that they were not worth growing. Rose breeders

Rose Dearest

were left with the task of finding new varieties with strong disease resistant foliage while still having attractive flowers and a scent where ever possible. I have grown hundreds of different varieties over the years, and discarded very many, but there is still a good roses well worth growing and every year new varieties appear in nurseries and garden centers to try out.

Roses come in many forms from miniature to bush (floribundas and hybrid teas) then shrubs, climbers and ramblers, so you can choose a plant to suit any occasion. Always buy from a reputable source and keep your receipt and the label. I have had several purchases where the plant did not reflect the label. One lovely red bush rose turned out to be a disease prone pink rose, and a dazzling yellow Julie Goodyear from a local garden centre does not seem to exist except in my garden.

Rose Julie Goodyear

Roses can be grown against walls, fences, up pergolas, or in borders as miniatures, bushes or if you have plenty of room free standing shrubs. Make sure you read about the ultimate size as some can be quite enormous. My climbing Mme Alfred Carrier wrecked my six foot fence then stretched well over twenty feet in every direction. However it is such a beauty that I cut it back to young shoots about six feet long so it can have another lease of life for a few more years.

I grow a deep red Dublin Bay on my south wall of the house and it flowers all summer from ground to twelve feet tall making a spectacular show, but unfortunately it has no scent. Another shrub rose I converted to a climber is the pink scented Gertrude Jekyll which never lets you down. It gets a wee bit of mildew, but nothing severe and greenfly can be a problem, but a couple of insecticide sprays sorts them out. It is a real show stopper on the house wall on

Sophie with scented roses

our patio.

Another of my favourite shrub roses, Ispahan has quite disease free foliage and is a mass of old English pink flowers in summer, but it can grow ten feet tall so either keep it pruned or if you have the space let it grow naturally.

Bush varieties are numerous in all colours and dependable varieties include the pinks Dearest and Myriam, the red scented E H Morse,

Climbing rose Dublin Bay

the bicolors Piccadilly and Rose Gaujard, the golden yellow Arthur Bell and Julie Goodyear (if it exists), and my best orange is Dawn Chorus.

Roses are propagated commercially by budding, but the home gardener can propagate roses with hardwood cuttings about 9 inches long, taken in the dormant season and lined out six inches apart with half the cutting buried in the soil. They should be ready for replanting the following winter.

Cultivation
Roses grow best on fertile clay soil provided it is well drained. Always dig deep and add plenty of compost as the bushes will last ten or more years. Plant about eighteen inches apart and add some fertilizer in spring to give growth a boost.

Amaryllis just potted up

Wee jobs to do this week

Amaryllis bulbs can be potted up now for flowering 7 to 10 weeks later. Pot them up in pots just slightly larger than the bulb using good potting compost. Leave one third of the bulb above the compost surface. Keep in a light warm spot and do not over water. The strong flower spike arrives before the leaves. After flowering keep the plant watered and fed to build up bulb strength so it can flower the next year, but it needs a good two months dormant period so slowly dry off in September. It can spend the summer months outdoors in a sheltered spot.

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NOVEMBER IN BLOOM

NOVEMBER IN BLOOM

Dahlia My Love

In the days before global warming, we gardeners could rely on the seasons to behave normally so we could organise our gardening activities on schedule. The summer season normally started with a dry warm June followed by just enough rain to keep plants growing, and then there was the July dry spell for the berry picking season and a cold but dry October for the tattie pickers. Summer flowers died down end of October so we could remove the bedding plants and replace them with spring flowering wallflowers and tulips. Winters usually arrived with a cold snap early November and I can remember skating in my early youth on several Dundee ponds in December.

Fuchsia in November

Today it has all changed. This year is said to be the hottest on record, but at my end of Dundee, the rains started in June and continued till November. In fact I think it is still raining. So where was that long hot summer? Onions got wiped out with white rot, and potatoes got blight, but green leafy plants were luxuriant. Flowering plants sulked for months, petunias and French marigolds died out and my roses got severely infected by black spot, but plants do not give up easily so the survivors are refusing to die down. It seems they want to make up for lost time!!!

This should be the beginning of winter, but walking around the garden you would think it is still summer. There are flowers everywhere.

Primroses

My tulip bulbs and spring flowering pansies and polyanthus (all covered in flowers) wait to get planted in tubs, but my tuberous begonias and geraniums in the tubs are in full flower and I just can’t pull them out. A batch of bright red geraniums planted in the shelter of a south facing wall still think it is summer, and as I have no plans to replace them I will just leave them to see how long they will last. On a previous occasion in this spot we got a very mild winter and they came through winter unscathed. Time will tell how they do this winter.

Fuchsia Mrs Popple has just loved this wet year and is still a mass of flowers, to be followed by a crop of fuchsia edible fruit with

Nerines

a sweet spicy flavour.

Rose varieties with more disease resistant foliage are having a late flush of flowers, especially the orange Dawn Chorus and yellow Arthur Bell. The white scented Margaret Merril has suffered blackspot, but is still flowering.

Spray chrysanthemums

Nerine bowdenii always puts on a great autumn show and the clump just seems to get bigger every year. It is very reliable and to see it at its best take a trip to Botanic Gardens as there is a huge drift by the glasshouses.

Dahlias would normally have been blackened by an early frost but mine are still giving a great display, so I’ll leave then a wee bit longer, but keep an eye on the weather forecasts.

Chrysanthemums are also continuing to flower so lifting them is also going to be a late task.

Pink orchid

Mahonia Charity is more associated with a late winter flower, but not this year as it is coming into flower now, and my snowdrops which should still be dormant are now pushing up into the light so they could yet again be in flower in December.

Back indoors I have a lovely pink Phalaenopsis orchid with a long raceme of flowers which is quite normal, except that I bought this one in full flower at the City Road Allotments Open Day in August and it just continues to flower. Four months of flowering is quite remarkable.

However my Christmas cactus, Zygocactus truncatus appears to be behaving normally as I have started to water it to bring on the flowering period just ahead of Christmas.

Wee jobs to do this week

Rhubarb

Lifting rhubarb

is now dormant, so after clearing off all dead foliage mature clumps, often six to ten years old can be lifted and divided. Discard sections from the middle but there should be plenty strong crowns around the edges. Select crowns with two or three strong buds and replant into well manured freshly dug soil, spacing them about three feet apart. Any spare crowns can be left on the surface to get some winter chill and then used for forcing to give an early crop of bright red sticks.

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HEAVENLY RASPBERRIES

HEAVENLY RASPBERRIES

My first experience of fresh raspberries goes back to the early fifties as this wee scruffy lad joined a band of other kids from the new housing estate St. Mary’s and headed into the countryside to pick some berries for which we would get paid a hefty price of a half penny for every pound picked. Pickers came from Dundee, surrounding villages and many travellers. Most of us got a few berries to take home for jam.

Polka raspberries

Summer berry picking stayed with me till I was old enough to get a full time job on leaving school, but the pleasures of the berry fields never left me so my garden always had a row of raspberries as well as some strawberries. At first it was the tall Norfolk Giant variety, but then along came Malling Jewel as an excellent main crop with a heavy yield. As time went on these were replaced with the very popular Glen Ample but then as climate changed and summers got wetter raspberries began to suffer the root rotting disease, phytophthora.

This event changed everything.

Raspberry tastings at James Hutton Institute

The east of Scotland had the perfect climate and soils for outdoor raspberry growing, but root rot was spreading rapidly so changes were needed. Initially it was the custom to plant canes on the top of ridges to help drainage, but now raspberries are grown in large pots under polythene tunnels with automatic drip irrigation. It was recognised that the older varieties were very prone to root rots so a breeding programme was started to find more resistant varieties for commercial growers.

Picking a few raspberries

Raspberries were so popular that it seemed sensible to extend the season by bringing in early varieties under tunnels as well as autumn fruiting varieties to have fruit well into October or even November in a good year. Autumn Bliss has had a great run for over ten years but now newer varieties such as Polka and Autumn Treasure give us far bigger fruits and picking made easier as the canes have no spines. These autumn fruiting varieties also seem to be less affected by root rots and yellow rust so assist breeding better varieties. However it is not just about disease and larger fruit as flavour is just as important before a new variety is released. Glen Fyne and Glen Dee have good berry size, good disease resistance and excellent flavour, so are perfect for home gardeners as well as commercial growers.

Planting raspberry cane

Raspberries are still grown in rows in the garden, but make sure the ground is well drained. As they will be left for ten years or so, it is worthwhile double digging a metre wide strip along the row, incorporating plenty compost to both subsoil and top soil. Plant the canes in the dormant season, about one to two feet apart and give a dressing of fertiliser to get them started. They will need strong posts with two wires to attach the canes to once they are two years old.

Summer fruiting raspberries fruit on canes produced the previous year, then in winter these are cut out and the new canes tied in with a running knot to prevent the canes moving in windy conditions.

Raspberry rust

Autumn fruiting varieties fruit on canes grown the same year, so after harvesting these canes are totally removed and fresh canes will grow the following spring.

Main pest is raspberry beetle maggots that mainly affect summer fruiting varieties, but sprays and hormone traps are available. The main disease of root rots affects older varieties so use disease resistant types. Raspberry yellow rust can also be devastating on some varieties, though newer varieties have some tolerance. If the rust is not too severe remove affected leaves in spring and burn them.

De Cayenne peppers

Wee jobs to do this week

Pick pepper De Cayenne as the season is now over. They can be stored for a few weeks in the fridge or washed, sliced removing the seeds and dried off for the freezer. This chilli is quite hot so be careful and use sparingly, though the health benefits of these hot chillies are very impressive having vitamins A, B, C and E and the minerals potassium and manganese. Hot peppers boost metabolism, circulation and blood flow and is said to increase energy levels with beneficial long term weight loss.

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