ALLOTMENT ROTATION
Crop rotation is an
essential practice when growing a range of vegetables in the garden or on an
allotment. This helps to prevent the build up of diseases such as clubroot on
brassicas and white rot on onions. Different crops require different amounts of
manure or compost so rotating crops allows all parts of the ground to receive
organic manuring over time. The brassica crops also grow best on land that has
a high pH value so it gets limed a couple of months before planting so the
winter snow and rain can wash the lime down into the soil. A higher pH value
also helps to discourage clubroot disease. Although we can grow some clubroot
resistant plants, the breeders have not yet produced a wide enough range to
give us year round protection, and many salad crops such as radish and mustard
can be affected. Wallflower plants that are grown from seed can also be
seriously affected.
A four year rotation
is the best practise so that the land that was limed for the brassicas one year
will be perfect for the next crops of heavy feeders or salads the next year.
Then in year four, acidity is returning and it is now perfect for the potatoes
and other root crops. Potatoes are liable to scab infection if there is lime in
the soil, or if the land is poor.
Planning the basics
of the rotation is always best ahead of the winter digging so you know how to
distribute the manures and garden compost according to subsequent crop needs.
This gives it time to rot down releasing its feeding values just when the new crops
need it.
Starting with the
heaviest feeders I allocate ample compost for my pumpkins and courgettes,
followed by the onions, leeks, peas, beans, sweet corn. Finally I make sure the
potato patch gets a fair amount of compost before digging in, though it is a
good practice to add some compost to the bottom of the drill at planting time.
Land selected for salads only needs a light dressing of compost and areas where
my root crops are to be grown get nothing otherwise the incidence of root
splitting will be too high.
If you grow
strawberries these can be added into the rotation once their fruiting life has
ended. They are normally grown for three cropping years then dug in and new
strawberry runners planted on fresh soil that has not previously had strawberries.
However since the old strawberry patch has not been manured or cultivated for
several years it will need a lot of compost and deep digging.
Intercropping and catch crops
Soil deteriorates if
left bare without plants grown on it, but many plants such as the courgettes,
pumpkins, dwarf French beans, runner beans and sweet corn are not frost hardy
so planting is delayed till the end of May or early June. This is where a catch
crop of a fast maturing salad can be grown such as radish, lettuce, spring onion
and baby beetroot. To make sure these have enough time to produce a worthwhile
crop they can be started early in cellular trays in the greenhouse. Similarly
where ever crops have finished early such as early potatoes, broad beans,
spring cabbage, over wintered cauliflower, onions and sweet corn, there is
still time for more quick maturing salads, rocket, autumn salad leaves,
beetroot and more spring onions. If you have enough salads then use the ground
for a green manure crop such as clover to enrich the soil for the next crop.
Intercropping
is very useful to use spare land for salads grown in between widely spaced
plants such as brussels sprouts, sweet corn and freshly planted strawberries.
Similar crops can also be grown around newly planted fruit trees and bushes
before they need all the allocated space.
Wee jobs to do this week
Tidy up the
allotment plot. Straighten up fences, and path edges which get disturbed with
cultivations over the growing season. Replace old carpets, lining the paths as
they deteriorate over time getting dangerously slippy. I use wood shreddings in
a layer about two inches deep.
Top dress flower
borders with a light fertiliser dusting and add some compost where bulbs have
been planted as they are now emerging and soon it will be too late when the
leaves develop.
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