LATE SUMMER HARVESTS

LATE SUMMER HARVESTS

The temptation to get away for a wee holiday in the sun is very strong after our long cool wet summer, but then you find it does suit some of our garden plants which have had plenty moisture and just enough warmth to get them growing. Cabbages, cauliflowers and sprouts have never grown so well and root crops have all got plenty top growth and hopefully roots will be a decent size.

However sweet corn and broad bean plants are all smaller than last year.

Late summer is the peak season for harvesting so while a wee trip into the sunshine would be very welcome many plants have matured and are ready to pick. Holiday thoughts will have to wait.

French beans are later this year and I have only just started to pick them so no rush for freezer space just yet.
Peas were sown over three dates, so the earliest have been picked and used while a very tall row of Alderman is currently being harvested. Another row of Kelvedon Wonder was sown in early July so wont be ready till the end of this month and into early September.

Broad beans were all harvested in mid August in a mammoth operation over several days.

Beans were picked in early afternoon, and then shelled after tea outdoors on sunny evenings. The beans were then blanched, cooled and extracted from the skins over the next two hours indoors accompanied by some music and a three year old bottle of redcurrant wine to keep us sane as it was a Friday night. Lastly, just before midnight they were bagged up into small bags and placed in the freezer. They will be used as they are or for a delicious and healthy bean soup over the next year.

Sweet corn is the next crop to get harvested in a one off destructive harvest. This year they were not ready till the end of August, but then the whole crop is ready at once. The cobs are picked in the morning on a nice sunny day so they can get sorted leisurely in the afternoon on the patio tables. All husks are removed and the cobs sorted out into large cobs for freezing, and others for either immediate use or short term use in the fridge.

Cabbage and cauliflower have just loved this weather and growth has been very good. The cool weather has helped to ripen them over a longer period so we could use them fresh with just a small amount getting frozen. I have also done two sowings of each in short rows separated over a couple of months. Six cabbages and six cauliflowers is plenty for us to get through in two months.

Courgettes are now very prolific, but do make a great soup, as well as numerous other dishes.

Onions grown from one packet of Hytech seed has given me an enormous crop of large bulbs that now just need a sunny dry spell to ripen up the bulbs so they can be woven into ropes for storing.

In the fruit garden the soft fruit has all been picked except my perpetual strawberry Flamenco which continues with berries and the Autumn Bliss raspberries which fruit till the frosts come.

Bramble Helen started to crop at the beginning of August and is now nearly finished, but my new primocane bramble Reuben is just starting to fruit. This is its first year so too early to judge.

Aronia Viking, the chokeberry had to be netted from our resident blackbird, who stripped off last years crop in one night. Aronias get picked once they all turn black and we use them for jam, summer puddings, compote and if I can get any spare they make a fantastic and very healthy wine, being very high in antioxidants. They can be frozen for future use.

Wee jobs to do this week

Greenhouse grapes should now be fully grown so ripening up the bunches takes priority. They will not need any further feeding and if the roots are within the greenhouse border just give enough water to keep them happy. Keep the ventilators wide open and also the door on warm days to circulate air flow to prevent any build up of botrytis and mildew. Remove all sideshoots as they appear and remove some surplus foliage to let light and sun into the plant. The more sun gets to the ripening bunches the sweeter they will be. Do not handle the bunches as they ripen and get a protective bloom on the grapes, but if you wish to sample a few select a small bunch with the most ripe grapes showing. Pulling off a few grapes from larger bunches can lead to botrytis infection.

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ALLOTMENTS IN FINLAND

ALLOTMENTS IN FINLAND

I got into allotments in the early sixties during my five year gardening apprenticeship with the Dundee Parks dept. I was very keen to learn everything about gardening, but there was no chance of getting knowledge of vegetables or fruit growing in a park, so I got an allotment plot on Stirling Park on the Dundee Law. Our day release gave us a half day on the demonstration plots in Duntrune Terrace then another half day of written work at the Kingsway Technical College. The best way to remember this information was to get some land and grow the plants to text book standards.

Allotments also gave me the outdoor life, making numerous new friends and plenty exercise. It got into my blood and I have had an allotment most of my life.

However we all need a break so this summer we had a holiday visiting friends in Finland. To add variety to this holiday we visited a couple of Finnish allotment sites. Allotment life is taking off in Finland as a means of getting back into nature in the short summer season.

Finland is quite far north so winters start in October and can run well into March or April. It can be very cold and dark and snow depth of four feet can be quite normal. Most Fins I saw in Helsinki lived in flats without gardens as the growing season is so short that most folk don’t bother with gardening. However as life moves on and folk get a bit more money and leisure time the desire to get outdoors for fresh air, sunshine, exercise and to grow a few flowers is very strong.

Allotment gardening began after the war when people needed to get outside into the sun after
the dark long cold winters. Land was leased out to groups who would allocate plots for cultivation during the short growing season. This idea caught on but was taken a few steps further as many folk wanted to spend the whole summer months in their garden, so cottage allotments were born.
I visited one site of about sixty plots where there were no fences, sheds or greenhouses. Weeds were a big problem as everything had to be done in the summer months, as the land was frozen over and covered in snow for almost six months in winter. Most plots grow a range of fruit and vegetables but flowers cover a third or more of every plot. I am told that people have a strong urge to grow colourful flowers to brighten up their summers after the long winters. However the Marjaniemi Cottage Allotments in Helsinki were totally different. Here there are 305 gardens each about 400 square meters and every one has a small wooden cottage on every plot. They all have hedges around the boundaries and every plot holder is required to plant at least one fruit tree. Most have several. Again flowers are more evident than vegetables, but fruit growing is very important. Lawns are also everywhere for outdoor relaxation and a place for the kids to play on. Cottages may be small but they all have full facilities for summer living and all Fins have their saunas. The site has a very strong sense of community and organizes regular events for open days, harvest festivals for selling fruit, mid summer solstice parties and bonfire as well as Christmas parties. Children are well catered for in these events.

Wee jobs to do this week

They have a strong sense of community and get together in large groups for site maintenance, repairing roads, bridges and even demolishing and rebuilding cottages. The community has their own licensed clubhouse, with toilets, laundry, workshop with weaving loom, and of course communal sauna. No cars are allowed on site so children can play safely and roads have no tarmac. Water and electricity are only available from April to October as nobody is allowed to live in the cottages all year round.

Start Save seed heads from annual (Ladybird) and biennial poppies (Iceland) to grow on for next year. Once dried and extracted from their pods and kept in a cool place they will keep for over a year. Other annuals can also be saved this way.

Keep feeding bedding plants in tubs and baskets especially with geraniums, fuchsias and impatiens that you wish to keep for another year as strong healthy plants with good growth are essential for the best cutting material.

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PEONIES

PEONIES

The red double herbaceous peony may be very common, but it does give a bright splash of colour in late spring and early summer to very many gardens. I grew up with this peony from childhood days as neighbours would happily give you a wee root for your garden. They always grew well and flowered within a couple of years then they would form a large clump over time. Growing a few feet tall and having a lot of foliage and large heavy flowers they always needed staking.

Looking for some more peonies on a trip to Gardening Scotland at Ingliston we soon found that there were quite a few growers of this plant showing many different varieties in white, pink, red and yellow colours. Anna could not resist the variety Doreen that was centre stage on one stand so she bought it immediately as it was an absolute cracker.

Back home it got planted with care in our herbaceous border, but it took a couple of years to build up its strength before putting on a brilliant show this year. Another variety a bit less common but really superb is the large flowered and scented pale pink Sarah Bernhardt. A well established large clump is very impressive. There are numerous varieties to choose from, but I would advise going to a peony or herbaceous specialist grower to guarantee you get what it says on the label. My first purchase of Sarah Bernhardt bought on holiday from a large west coast nursery/garden centre took two years to flower then turned out to be the common red. Unfortunately this is a very common problem in the nursery trade. There are just too many instances of incorrectly labelled plants as well as diseased plants that just should not be up for sale. My phytophthora root rot problem on my allotment started with infected Glen Ample raspberry canes purchased locally, then three years later they were replaced with more canes planted in a different spot. Again bought locally, but turned out to be Glen Rosa, not Ample.

Anyway back to peonies, once you have decided on which varieties to buy you can get them as bare root or containerised plants ready to plant in late autumn or spring. Choose a sunny location or one with only minimal shade. They are not fussy on type of soil growing happily on both sandy and clay soils as well as acid or alkaline, as long as drainage is good, but make sure it is fertile by adding plenty of well rotted compost worked into the soil.  Plant with the crowns just below the soil surface, then give a dressing of Growmore or other general fertiliser to give them a boost to help them get established. Although peonies can be tolerant of drought, it will not help establishment if growth is curtailed in dry spells in spring or summer so give them a mulch of compost in the first couple of years, but avoid covering the buds.

Once your clumps are well established you can propagate from them by dividing the clumps in autumn making sure each portion has at least three buds on a good fleshy root system, and replant as above with the buds only just covered with soil. Deep planting is often the problem for plants failing to flower properly.

Peonies are herbaceous perennials that die back to ground level in autumn, however the tree peony is a different form. It is a deciduous hardy shrub growing from four to ten feet tall.

The tree peony might be less common, but then it is more expensive and considered a bit more difficult to grow. Both types are relatively easy provided you plant them in a sunny sheltered spot in Scotland in fertile soil that holds moisture but is well drained. As the flowers are quite large and the bushes tall they are prone to damage by strong winds so shelter is essential together tying in to support the flowers.

Wee jobs to do this week

Start summer pruning of fruit trees and bushes. Once crops have been picked from currants and raspberries they can be pruned to allow the remaining parts more light and room to mature. Apples, pears, cherries and peaches grown as cordons, espaliers, stepovers or fan trained against walls and fences are all grown on a system to encourage spur formation and restrict growth. Cut back side shoots to about four leaves or so once new growth is no longer likely to form. This will be further pruned in winter to form a spur system.

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MID SUMMER ON THE PLOT

MID SUMMER ON THE PLOT

This is the healthy season as we enjoy the fresh soft fruit in the middle of the raspberry (Glen Fyne) and strawberry picking season, as well as gooseberries and some massive Ben Conan blackcurrants. Then a few days later the saskatoons will be ready. All the while the garden salads are being gathered, as well as turnip, cabbage, cauliflower and peas. Beetroot are big enough to allow a thinning by taking out the smaller baby beet, and the first of my courgettes is ready. Once they start they just keep coming right through summer. The cool wet summer has been beneficial for those plants needing to put on growth like the cabbages, cauliflowers, brussels sprouts, all root crops and salads, but fruit crops are suffering as they need sunshine and warmth to sweeten up the berries.

Sweet corn and broad beans are only half the height they were this time last year, and early pickings of broad beans are disappointing. The pods are not full and the beans not as big as normal. Similarly peas are down in size, but we are ever hopeful that summer is just delayed and not totally absent.

A decent late summer and autumn could make a huge difference, especially for my grape vines, pumpkins, apples, pears and autumn raspberries.

Onions and leeks are putting on terrific growth and promise heavy crops, but onions will need a warm dry period for ripening towards the end of August.

Swedes, turnips, parsnips, carrots, beetroot and radish have never looked better and these root crops are so good that it is hard to use them all, though many of them will be fine in the ground into winter and some will get frozen.

Similarly the cabbages and cauliflower are all maturing together, but I have sown them in small numbers in short rows several weeks apart to extend cropping, but a lot of the caulis will get frozen for future use.

Potatoes are another very healthy crop with Sarpo Mira and International Kidney showing no signs of blight, unlike Lady Christl which has suffered some fungus so it has been lifted ahead of the others. Blight however has not reduced cropping with numbers and size of tubers very impressive.

Dwarf French beans started off with excellent germination sowing outdoors into soil I though was too cold, but it was time for sowing by the calendar. They had to have some serious thinning, but now I have two rows of very sturdy plants giving me my first taste of beans.

I always grow some flowers on the plot to make it more attractive as well as giving some cut flowers for the house. Gladioli are late but strong, chrysanthemums are early but small and sweet peas have the vigour but lack flowers. One allotment plot with a pond has some terrific pure white water lilies complete with the resident frogs.

City Road Allotments Open Day
This year our Open Day is on Sunday 9^th August when we open the gates and welcome everyone in to see our gardens. We are open from 11am to 3pm. People are welcome to visit, wander around the plots, enjoy refreshments in our café on site with home baking and purchase freshly harvested fruit and vegetables as well as home made jams, tablet and chutney. There will also be many garden plants for sale from geraniums, grape vines and heucheras to saskatoons and roses.

Wee jobs to do this week

Climbing roses that have had their first flush of flowers can be pruned to remove old flower heads and hopefully put on some fresh growth before giving us a second show of flowers in late summer.

Blackberries can suffer attacks from the raspberry beetle maggots, so give the fruit a spray with pyrethrum as soon as they begin to turn colour, then repeat ten days later.

Check tomato plants leaves for botrytis and remove as soon as any appears. This can be a problem during cold damp weather, so keep the ventilators open to reduce any condensation.

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LILIES

LILIES

It is hard to beat lilies when you want that heady exotic scent, especially the oriental lilies. They are also relatively easy to grow as long as you give them a well drained fertile soil and a sunny position. They are perfect in pots and tubs placed on patios where the large scented flowers can be enjoyed, but be careful of the pollen which can stain hands and clothes.

Lilies cover a whole range of plants some of which may not be true lilies such as arum and calla lilies, Lily of the valley, African lilies and the day lily.

Many such as the African lily, the arum lily, calla lily coming from southern Africa and the day lily coming from China, Japan and Korea are not true lilies, but enjoy much the same conditions, whereas Lily of the valley is an herbaceous perennial coming from Europe.

Many of these lilies such as the white Arum lily, Zantedescia aethiopica can become almost naturalised, but unlike other lilies it prefers wet boggy ground. The arum lily is quite hardy, but the Calla lily which likes the same conditions comes in a range of bright colours and is not so hardy.

The blue coloured African lily, Agapanthus is not so hardy so is best in pots which can be partially dried off in winter and stored in a cool but frost free place. They will take some frost, but not a severe or wet winter. They can go outdoors under a sheltered south facing wall.

The Day lilies, Hemerocallis are hardy and have been very popular with plant breeders so there are very many varieties (over 35,000) of all colours to choose from. Each flower may only last one day, but there are so many that they still make a great display.

True lilies are often grouped into Orientals or Asiatics. These are all grown from bulbs. Some bulbs produce roots at the base so as a guide when planting take out a hole twice the depth of the bulb. Those lilies that also grow roots from the base of the flower stems should be planted a lot deeper.

The oriental lilies will grow up to five feet tall but require an acid soil which is fertile and very well drained. The taller types will need support to hold up the stems as the large flowers can be a fair weight and prone to damage by strong winds. If you do not have an acidic soil they are best in tubs using an ericaceous compost with added horticultural grit to improve drainage. Always add some grit to the base of the planting hole. These lilies are mostly highly scented, whereas the Asiatic lilies have almost no scent. The asiatics prefer an alkaline soil, so some lime prior to planting is helpful. They grow up to two feet tall.

The Madonna lily, Lilium candidum, grows about four feet tall producing large white scented flowers. Do not plant this one deep as the contractile roots will pull the bulbs down to the correct depth. It is a bit prone to botrytis in damp areas.

The regal lily, Lilium regale, is one of the commonest lilies, but very popular as it is easy to grow, quite reliable with highly scented large white flowers.

Another very popular lily is lilium Enchantment as it is another easy to grow variety but has no scent. It soon forms a large clump with dazzling orange flowers.

Lilium auratum from Japan is one of the tallest lilies growing up to eight feet tall so will need support, but it has fantastic heady perfume.

Wee jobs to do this week

Plants want to grow in summer as well as flower, so keep giving tubs, pots and hanging baskets a weekly feed to ensure they will continue to give value.

Chrysanthemums need continual disbudding for those grown as one flower per stem, but do not disbud spray chrysanthemums.

Once tomatoes reach the top of their supports and have about six or seven trusses take the tops out to stop growth and help ripen up the young bunches.

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