HARVEST THE APPLES

HARVEST THE APPLES

October is usually the busy month for apple harvesting, though this year the cool summer has delayed ripening by a few weeks. My first Oslins, the Arbroath Pippin, were picked at the end of August, but were not truly ripe till early September. Although this apple has a distinct flavour it is very prone to brown rot and in this cool year with a wet August losses have been very high.

Apples like all other fruit need warm sunny days to increase sweetness so it is understandable that apples, pears and most other fruits have lacked the sweetness of previous years.

Catherine picking her step over apples

My main early apple Discovery was picked in mid October, a good month later than previous years. The crop yield with this and all other apples has been very high, but I fear at the expense of flavour. Apples came into flower quite late so there were plenty of bees around for pollination, then good weather for fertilisation. The spring and summer season gave us cool but moist weather so growth was slow, but apples and pears all swelled up larger than normal. A week of brilliant summer weather at the end of September certainly helped to ripen up the fruit, but then it was very short lived as we returned to a cold and wet October. This mixture of warm dry weather followed by cold and wet affected the Discovery apples by causing the skin to split on a few before I got them harvested. As yet my Fiesta, Red Falstaff and Red Devil are still on the tree, but will be picked before the end of this month.

Apple Red Devil

This years heavy crop came in for some thinning in July, both naturally then by hand where ever I thought the crop was too heavy. However as the fruit swelled the trees have continued to drop apples all October but before they were fully ripe. This harvest was not lost as Anna has got herself a juicer and now everything she can get her hands on gets juiced. Apples, pears, carrots, beetroot, Lettuce, chard, kale and tomatoes have all gone through the juicer. Never thought I would be drinking my lettuce and kale, and it tastes just fine. It can be stored fresh in the fridge for a couple of days, but all surplus gets frozen for future use.

We lead a very healthy life!!!

Apple Discovery

Bramley apples can hang a long time on the tree so it is usually early November before I pick my cookers. Again the crop is very heavy so there is plenty to store into next spring. I pack all fruit in boxes placed in my cold garage, but keep a check for any rots, or shrivelling or mice.

Once all my apples are picked, cleaned and sorted I can see just how much surplus I have so I can allocate a fair bit for brewing into my Sauternes style dessert apple wine. I will need 30 pounds of apples for three demijohns of wine, which will be ready in a couple of year’s time.

Starlight apple Firedance

Plant an apple tree now

We get so much value from our apple trees that I feel everyone with a wee garden or plot should plant at least one apple tree. Now is the time to plan which variety you wish to grow and garden space will determine what size of tree to purchase. There is a size and shape to suit all situations, from standards, bush, fan trained, cordons, espaliers and now for those with very limited space we have the step over tree growing only a few feet tall but kept small with summer pruning. Another development has been the introduction of the single stemmed Starline apple trees coming in five different varieties. These dwarf trees are kept narrow and columnar by summer pruning all side shoots to a couple of buds. They are ideal for those with very limited space but wish to grow a few varieties, which also helps with cross pollination. I like the bright red Starline variety Firedance.

Wee jobs to do this week

Now that the tomato crops are just about finished, it is better to remove all ripe and unripe fruits which can be ripened in a warm place indoors. Remove the old plants and chop up for the compost heap. Growbags or border soil can still be used for an early winter salad crop of salad leaves, mizuna, cress, rocket, mustard and radish.

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END OF SEASON CARE

END OF SEASON CARE

As the growing season comes to an end it is time to harvest some crops that need winter protection, and find winter quarters for those tender summer flowers that will continue for many years as long as you look after them during the critical winter months. Some vegetable crops such as leeks, Swedes, winter cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Swiss Chard and parsnips are quite happy to be left alone as they are perfectly hardy and exposure to frosts help to sweeten them up.

Beetroot and carrots can be lifted and stored in dry soil or sand in a frost free shed, although with milder winters becoming normal, I have tended to just earth up my beetroot and leave them where they are. So far this strategy has been fine, but a severe winter like in 2010 could test this method.

Onions and potatoes are best drying off before storing them in hessian sacks, onion nets or for small quantities of potatoes I use large cardboard boxes in my frost proof garage. Onions need plenty of ventilation to keep them sound, and potatoes need darkness as exposure to light will turn them green and be inedible. However if you have a good variety and you wish to keep some smaller spuds for growing the next year, then exposure to light is good for them.

Pumpkins are usually left till the end of this month to let them ripen up and turn orange before taking them home and storing them in a cool room. They should store quite well up to March.

Geraniums and impatiens can be kept from one year to another by taking cuttings and growing them on a windowsill over winter. I take geranium cuttings by snapping the top of a strong shoot off at a leaf joint with just one leaf. I do not use a knife. These cuttings go into shallow pots with a sandy compost mixture. Impatiens cuttings are taken about three to four inches long and after removing all the lower leaves they are placed in a jar filled with water with only the leafy tops showing. Keep them on a light windowsill that is not in the sun. They will root in a month and can then be potted up into compost to grow on and flower in late autumn to mid winter, on a sunny windowsill.

Fuchsias grown in pots or baskets are best dried off and kept in a cool frost free place over winter, but check they don’t completely dry out. However keep young fuchsias grown from cuttings taken in summer growing for as long as possible to establish a strong plant before they go dormant and need drying off slightly.

Begonias are lifted in October when flowering finishes and the cold weather causes the leaves to fall off. I dry my tubers out in the sun for about a week, provided there is no risk of frost. Then remove all the soil before packing them in polystyrene boxes for storing in my garage. I use the dry old soil to cover over the tops for added protection and make sure they don’t completely dry out.

Gladioli are lifted in mid October and the old stems cut off just above ground level. The corms are dried out under cover, then cleaned up removing the old spent corm and all small cormlets. The biggest of these can be retained for growing on, and will flower after one or two years. Store in a frost free garage or shed in boxes and keep them dry.

Chrysanthemum stools are lifted after flowering, cut back to about six inches and boxed up in compost. Make sure all stools are labelled. Over winter in a cold greenhouse or frame, and keep them moist as they will continue to grow, though ever so slowly till spring.

Wee jobs to do this week

Although our autumns seem to go on longer and winter slow to appear, deciduous trees and shrubs will start to lose their leaves from now till winter. Rake these up regularly and add them to the compost heap. Once mixed with old grass cuttings, annual weeds and vegetable debris they will soon rot down and provide an excellence source of compost to enrich the soil.

Summer bedding plants that are finished can also be added to the compost heap plus any old soil from tubs and hanging baskets that needs replacing. If the compost heap has been gathering material since late winter, give it a turn over with a fork to mix old rotted compost with fresh new material as this will help to rot it down.

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SUMMER TUBS AND BASKETS

SUMMER TUBS AND BASKETS

Summer may have been a long time coming, but the end of September went out in a blaze of colour responding to the dry, warm, sunny weather. The summer flowers should have been going over, but they are trying to make up for the lost season. Several petunias that had survived the cold summer put on a bold display as did the impatiens which has sulked all summer. However, now is the time to assess just how the summer flowers have performed. So before they get pulled out and added to the compost heap to be replaced with our spring flowering plants, take stock of the best plants and varieties to grow in 2016.

Geraniums and tuberous begonias have been my star attractions this year. Geraniums have been in flower from late spring till mid October and I am loath to remove them, but I have pansies, polyanthus, wallflowers and tulips all eager to get planted. Both red and white geraniums had a great year, but one tub with a mixture of cerise pink geraniums planted with shell pink impatiens and deep purple petunias were let down badly as the impatiens and petunias just did not grow this year, until the end of September. However every year is different so I will try out this combination next year hoping that the summer comes in a wee bit earlier. Dark blue and purple petunias can be very attractive in a good year and the blue petunia has the added bonus of a great scent.

Begonias were a bit late in coming into flower, but then they put on a dazzling display. My red and orange varieties were particularly impressive so they will get prime locations next year as individual colours in each tub rather than mixed to increase the dramatic effect. My tubers must be approaching twenty years old, but they are very easy to keep over winter, and when they get too big I just cut them in half in spring when I can see the shoots begin to grow.

Both geraniums and impatiens will be propagated from autumn cuttings and grown indoors over winter. The impatiens makes an excellent flowering house plant, and can be in flower almost up till Christmas in a mild year.

Fuchsias are another plant that just loved this cool sunless summer. Southern Belle is used in my hanging baskets by the entrance doorway, and Mrs Popple grows freely in borders established years ago. In a cold winter it may die back to ground level, but then in spring it bursts into life. It was a mass of flowers in mid summer, producing loads of ripe berries which we collected and put through the juicer for a tasty drink. It had a wee rest in early September, but by the end of the month with the late arrival of a week of summer weather brought out more flowers in a dramatic burst of colour.

African marigolds and annual calendulas provided the yellow garden colours, but they could have been better in a different year. Marigolds really need a hot dry sunny summer. I’ll think twice about growing them again next year. Cosmos grew from seed left in the ground from the previous year providing a nice splash of pinks and mauves against fresh green feathery foliage.

Lobelia is another dwarf annual that keeps appearing all around the garden and if it is not interfering with other plants we just let it grow to provide a deep blue relaxing colour.

Poppy Ladybird and Californian poppies also appear everywhere, but they can overwhelm the garden so we give them some space but don’t let them take over. Grown together the red and yellow flowers compliment each other.

Wee jobs around the garden

Once fruit bushes go dormant and lose their leaves they can be propagated easily with hardwood cuttings. Red, white and blackcurrants and gooseberries are all pretty foolproof. Take current years shoots about nine inches long and insert at least half of it into the soil outdoors having forked over the ground to loosen it up and aerate it. Prepare the cutting with a basal cut below a leaf joint and the other cut at the top above a bud. Space out about four inches apart and after rooting in spring grow on for the rest of the year. They will be ready for lifting and planting out the following winter.

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CUT FLOWERS FOR THE HOUSE

CUT FLOWERS FOR THE HOUSE

The garden flowers always seem to know that summer is just about gone but are determined to go out in a blaze of colour and glory. Everything is at its best and as yet the first frosts have not arrived, even though the weather forecasters keep warning us of winter doom every time we get a clear night. So just in case it could happen we cut a few blooms to brighten up the home. I tend to take this a stage further and grow several plants just for cutting for home decoration. On recent occasions when autumn continues well beyond its time and the winters are still delayed I have had a small bunch of roses cut for the festive table. They do not last very long, but it is brilliant to see roses at that time of year.

I grow some roses on my allotment to brighten it up and also give me some cut flowers in summer so I don’t have to reduce my garden displays. National Trust is an excellent bright red rose with great form, but unfortunately no scent. Piccadilly is great in bud, but not long lasting. Wendy Cussons is a lovely pink carmine with a terrific scent as is the white Margaret Merril.

Although there are plenty of great plants for the summer season, including sweet peas, flag iris, border carnations, gladioli, lilies and chrysanthemums, you will need some tulip and daffodil bulbs for cut flowers in spring.

Late summer is a good time to be planning well ahead for next year as the past year is fresh in our minds, and before we forget we can assess how different varieties have performed. If some varieties perform badly, don’t last very long or are just not impressive, then discard them and try some new varieties. Sweet peas for cut flower need a long stem and a good scent and it may be better to grow them as single stem cordons rather than letting them ramble up some tall support. This is a lot more work with feeding, disbudding tendrils and tying in, but the results are so much more rewarding.

Chrysanthemums come in many forms, and if you want really large impressive heads then opt for large decoratives or even giant incurves or reflexes, but they all need a lot of work and attention. However, if you just wish for a really good display of colour, then try the spray varieties, which do not need disbudding. At this time of year I go over all my varieties to decide which to keep till next year and discard any that failed to impress. I will try out a few new varieties each spring.

Gladioli are now just about all finished, but we can look back and see if we are missing any colour that would enhance a mixed display. Make notes for ordering next spring.

Carnations for cut flower can be grown in a cold greenhouse very successfully, but need plenty of light and room so do not mix well with tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers or grapevines. If you can’t afford greenhouse space but really want a few carnations then grow a range of outdoor border carnations, most of which have a strong clove scent. The colour range is also very interesting, and there are always new types to try out.

Lilies make great cut flower with their long stems and exotic scent. I grow the oriental types for perfume and large upright heads, but most of the bulbs are for a spring delivery.

Daffodils and Tulips grown for cut flower can be ordered now. The best narcissi for scent are the Jonquills, large cupped daffodils and the Cheerfullness range. When choosing tulips for cut flower, get those with tall stems, such as the single earlies, triumphs, lily flowered or Darwin hybrids.

They can all be planted in good well drained soil and left to naturalise.

Wee jobs to do this week

Collect windfall apples every few days before the slugs do any damage. Apples tend to ripen unevenly so while some go ripe and fall off others hang on a bit longer. The test is to cut them in half and check the colour of the seeds. Ripe fruit has very dark seeds and unripe fruit has white seeds. Fruit that is only slightly damaged or bruised can still be used after cutting off the bad bits. They are perfect for stir fries, curries, crumbles, fried together with egg, tomato, mushroom and bacon, and keep some back for the juicer which seems to be the latest way to enjoy a healthy drink.

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TIME TO ORDER SPRING BULBS

TIME TO ORDER SPRING BULBS

The summer flowers in tubs, baskets and borders are still flowering in great profusion, but as autumn is not too far away we need to plan ahead for the spring displays that will replace them once the cold weather arrives to put an end to the blossom.

In past times you could expect frosts in October and snow in November, but climate change has pushed back the cold weather so summer flowers continue to bloom well beyond their normal season. However, next years bedding plants of wallflower, pansies, myosotis and polyanthus will want to be planted in October with tulips, hyacinths and crocus planted between them. Now is the time to be ordering these bulbs from suppliers online or from garden centres while they are in stock and before they clear everything out to replace them with the Christmas trees and decorations.

I did a fair bit of planning last spring looking at my existing bulb displays and noting gaps to be filled and new landscape planting to be tidied up. One drift of crocus has too many yellow bulbs so I will add more purple, white and striped crocus.

In another area underneath my apple trees, I have a large drift of blue pulmonaria which I will enhance with an underplanting of dwarf red and yellow early flowering tulips.

Next to it one massive ceanothus shrub died out and was replaced with a large group of the yellow flowering doronicums. I will add to their spring display with a batch of early red tulip Red Riding Hood, which should contrast perfectly with the yellow flowers.

Another newly landscaped area with peonies, which are excellent as ground cover, I will plant a large drift of the tall Darwin Hybrid tulips to flower in spring before the peonies need the space. The display will be further enhanced with a planting of tall scented oriental lilies for the mid to late summer display, by which time the peonies are all finished.

Every year fresh tulips, hyacinths and crocus are purchased for planting in between the spring flowers in tubs and borders, then when they are finished I always find a spot in the garden for the old bulbs which will naturalise and spread from year to year.

Some bulbs will spread very readily themselves from seed. Aconites, snowdrops, crocus, anemone blanda and grape hyacinths are all easy to grow and spread from their own seed but grape hyacinth can become very invasive so be careful where you put them.

Although there has been a fair bit of mild winters since 2010, it is still very pleasing to see the arrival of the first flowers in late winter. This is normally the snowdrops and aconites, though I had snowdrops in flower last December. It is a good idea to plant these snowdrops and aconites where they can be seen from the comfort of a warm room.

The next spring display is often the crocus, so I try to enhance this show by adding more bulbs every year into the existing drifts. These are quickly followed by the daffodils and narcissi, so find some room for these under deciduous trees and shrubs and around plants in the herbaceous border.

When the tulips arrive you know that the spring is here and warm weather will allow you to have your coffee breaks outdoors in the sunshine. This is when the patio comes back into use so make sure a lot of the displays are in this area and use plenty of hyacinths to add scent to the atmosphere.

Wee jobs to do this week

Now that the lawn grass growth is starting to slow down we can start on the autumn renovation work. Any bare patches can be top dressed with some sterilised top soil or compost and sown with a fine lawn seed mixture as there is still time for germination before winter arrives. Any lawn with a moss problem can be treated with lawn sand, or you can buy in some sulphate of iron and mix a dessert spoonful to the gallon and water it over the moss. This will kill the moss and feed the grass.

Later on in October lawns can be scarified to remove surface thatch (accumulations of dead leaves) then aerated with a fork. Fill in the holes with an autumn lawn compost containing a slow release fertiliser and brush it in.

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