LOOKING AFTER THE FRUIT BUSHES

LOOKING AFTER THE FRUIT BUSHES

The dormant season is nearly over so tackle any outstanding fruit garden jobs before the bushes start growing. There is still time to finish off any winter pruning, planting new bushes, spraying the peach tree, taking a few cuttings and erecting the low polythene tunnels over the early strawberries.

Top Fruit trees

This is the last chance to complete any winter pruning of apples and pears. I tend to prune to manage tree growth to balance vigour with fruiting and keep the centres open for good air circulation. This keeps the bushes strong and lets in sunshine to ripen up developing fruit. I also cut out any over vigorous shoots which like to put on growth at the expense of fruiting. After last years wet season there is a lot of upright growth needing cutting out or bent over and tying down to induce fruit bud formation.

Pears tend to put on plenty fruit spurs, so pruning is aimed at creating a well spaced framework of branches. It is two years since I inserted grafts to add two new pear varieties and the new branches look very strong with good fruit buds developing so I am confident I may sample some Beurre Hardy and The Christie pears this autumn.

Peach trees are getting their second Bordeaux spray against peach leaf curl before growth and flowering commences. We are in a dry but cold weather spell, so sprays won’t get washed off.

Currants and gooseberries

Pruning needs to be completed on these bushes. Blackcurrants were pruned after fruit harvesting, but red currants get spur pruned in winter. I create an open centred bush with about eight main shoots which carry the crop. Side shoots from these get cut back by half in summer then spur pruned to a few buds in winter. The main shoots get replaced from time to time from other young shoots growing from the base. Prunings make excellent cuttings to give away or grow on into new bushes. I will be planting up a new blackcurrant Big Ben which has been bred locally at the James Hutton Institute for large fruit size and enhanced sweetness to encourage eating the fruit fresh from the bush. The Royal Horticultural Society was so impressed they gave it an Award of Garden Merit.

Gooseberries get some spur pruning, though I am more concerned to open up the centres for ease of picking as Invicta has vicious thorns, but is a brilliant variety. I also cut out any branches too close to the ground otherwise the fruit gets muddy.

Strawberries

Early strawberries Mae are now protected by a low polythene tunnel to bring on early growth and protect it from wet weather and birds.

I am planting some perpetual strawberries Flamenco to extend my season well into autumn. This variety is very reliable and fruits on runners produced all summer.

Grapes

Indoor and outdoor grapes were spur pruned in January cutting all growths back to one or two buds. In the greenhouse the spur pruned upright vine rods have been lowered from the support wires to allow even breaking of growth along the stems, otherwise you will get a top heavy plant with bare patches at the bottom. Once growth has commenced evenly up the stem the rods will be tied back into an upright position.

I continue to try out new varieties to see if one can be found that will ripen successfully outdoors in Scotland assuming that the much quoted global warming is just round the corner. I am looking at Rondo, Siegerrebe and Phoenix. I already have Solaris, but need a better year to judge its progress.

Plant of the week

Winter flowering pansies are one of the best winter bedding plants for beds, tubs and hanging baskets. Every time we get two or three days of sunshine a few flowers will come into bloom from February onwards. They will have a peak flowering in spring but continue to flower into mid summer. They are very easy to grow from seed sown in mid summer then grown on to build up a strong plant for autumn planting.

Painting of the month

Forfar Loch is one of my favourite landscapes for summer, autumn and winter scenes with excellent views all round this small loch. This acrylic painting of Forfar Loch in autumn is on a box canvas and will be exhibited at the Angus Open Studio event at the end of May.

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EXOTIC FLOWERS

EXOTIC FLOWERS

Every gardener loves a challenge. Growing normal flowers, fruit and vegetables can be challenging enough with our unpredictable weather, but with so much talk about global warming it does tempt you to go beyond the normal and see what we can do with a few exotics. A wide range of exotic plants can now be found in most garden centres, so push the boat out and give some a try.

Way back in my apprenticeship days we only had a very limited range and most of them were under glass at Camperdown, such as bananas, bougainvilleas, canna, gardenias, clivias, passion fruit and some small fruited oranges. Outdoors we grew eucalyptus, caster oil plants and cordylines as summer dot plants for flower beds.

Today the range is extended to include Angel trumpets, the Tuberose, Spider lilies, and the white ginger lily. Some plants such as the Pineapple broom Cytisus battandieri, the New Zealand tea tree Leptospermum and the African Lily Agapanthus will grow fine outdoors all year round, but will die out if the winters get too cold.

There are very many more and most will either need a glasshouse for protection, a warm south facing wall, and others are quite hardy in the summer months but require to be brought indoors for the winter.

Several years ago mild winters were becoming normal for about ten years in a row, snow was a rarity unless you went up north and we all started to try a few less hardy plants. Eucalyptus, Cordyline australis palms, the date palm Phoenix dactylifera, Blue African lilies, the Pineapple broom and Leptospermum Red Damask all got planted in my garden and put on fantastic growth and a great show of flowers on some.

A passion fruit climber was planted beside my climbing rose Dublin Bay not really expecting it to grow. It just loved it and within two years it was in flower, growing wildly and threatening to take over my climbing rose.

Then in 2010, winter returned, temperatures plunged and stayed low for ages. In spring after the snows melted the damage was severe. Everything died out except the Eucalyptus, though it did lose a few leaves. Now we are in a mild wet cycle and know one knows how long this will last.

Exotics are now either kept in the greenhouse, at home in a light warm room or grown outdoors in the summer only.

Indoor exotics

Three plants worth trying are the tuberose known as Polianthes tuberose, the white ginger lily, Hedychium coronarium and the Peruvian daffodil or spider lily, Ismene festalis and sometimes called Hymenocallis festalis. All of these tender plants have highly scented white flowers.

They all need to be potted into a rich free draining compost and grown in a warm light room or heated glasshouse. Keep watered and feed fortnightly and in late summer you should be enjoying their powerful white scented flowers. The tuberose is difficult to flower in its second year unless you can get several weeks of good growth after flowering to build up the bulb for overwintering.

The lilies are easier and should be dried off for overwintering in their pots.

Outdoor exotics

Angel Trumpets, known as Brugmansias and Indian Shot known as Canna can both be planted outdoors to flower in the summer months. Grow similarly as the indoor exotics but harden off and plant out in May in beds or tubs. Angel Trumpets flowers give off their fantastic scent in late evenings to attract night flying moths for pollination. They are perfect on a patio on a warm summers evening. Canna can be grown for its exotic foliage and flowers in a flower bed or tub. Both should be dug up in autumn, and kept fairly dry, but not too dry and keep in a frost free place.

I have had Canna overwinter perfectly fine in a dryish border, after I forgot to lift them in autumn, but the next year they grew and flowered quite happily. However that winter was mild.

Plant of the week

Crocus species are distinctly different from the large flowered hybrids in that they usually flower about two weeks earlier. The flowers may be smaller but they naturalise so easily that they readily create large bold drifts of colour. They are perfect amongst deciduous shrubs flowering in late February to early March before the shrubs have any leaves. There are numerous species, but my favourites all belong to just three main types. Crocus chrysanthus gives us the pastel coloured Cream Beauty and Blue Pearl, the pure white Snowbunting and the deep yellow Zwanenburg Bronze. The best Crocus sieberi are the lilac Firefly and the white Bowles White. Crocus tommasinianus is itself a very attractive lavender, and Ruby Giant is a very bold reddish purple.

They are always better planted in full sun otherwise the flowers may not open up fully.

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FEBRUARY FLOWERS

FEBRUARY FLOWERS

There is always some kind of flower to be found in the garden in every month of the year even throughout winter. When it is cold, sunless and wet the winter flowers just lie dormant, but as soon as we get a couple of sunny days they take their chance and out comes the flowers. Yellow flowered jasmine carries on like that from late autumn till the end of winter. This is also the time for winter flowering viburnums, mahonias, some daphnes, chimonanthus and hammamelis.

However it is the early flowering bulbs, such as snowdrops and aconites that give us the biggest mass displays of colour, and the hellebores at this time of year are also many people’s favourites. All of these plants are very winter hardy and are often seen rising into flower above a carpet of snow. They signal the end to winter weather with the promise that spring is not too far away. It is always a good idea to plan the garden design so that these early flowers can be seen from the comfort of a warm room.

Snowdrops

Every garden, no matter how small should have a drift of snowdrops. They are very easy to grow, multiply quickly and very accommodating as they are quite happy to grow under large deciduous shrubs. They enjoy a deciduous woodland setting with dappled sunlight or shade and if the soil dries out in summer it will help to ripen off the dormant bulbs. They will spread by seed scattered by birds but also by dividing up mature clumps and replanting them while still growing but just after flowering, so we don’t spoil the display. Snowdrops are perennials, so although they die down at the end of spring, they will emerge again every year.

There are many large gardens noted for their Snowdrop Festivals where you can find them in massive drifts. Cambo Estate near Kingsbarns in Fife is always well worth a visit with over 300 different Galanthus species and holding National Collection status.

Winter Aconites

This is the plant to use if you want to establish a golden yellow carpet of flowers in February and March. Winter aconites are known botanically as Eranthis hyemalis. They are very similar to snowdrops in their use and growing conditions, but are better in the sun or dappled sunlight to open up the flowers fully. They spread by seed or dividing up established clumps immediately after flowering. They also like a rich moist woodland soil that is free draining and are quite happy on an alkaline soil. To help establish a good drift collect the seed after flowering before it disperses and just scatter it onto the soil surface and rake it in. The following February it will produce one seed leaf then the following year it will produce a larger mature leaf. It is in its third year before the flowers appear. Be careful when handling this plant and seeds as it is poisonous.

Hellebores

These are also known as the Christmas rose and the Lenten rose and are always very popular. The flowers appear in late winter and spring and come in pinks, mauves, white and spotted colours.

Although the hellebore is a herbaceous perennial, it often remains evergreen, but it is better to remove the older leaves after flowering otherwise the foliage clump can grow too tall and hide the flowers the following year.

Hellebores like a rich moist, but free draining, woodland soil in shade or partial shade with some shelter from strong winds.

They can be propagated by digging up and dividing mature clumps after flowering or in the autumn.

You can also propagate by seed, but germination can be quite slow, so patience is required as you might have to wait more than one year. Home saved seed will not come true to type, but you may well get the next best variety.

Plant of the week

Daphne odora is not a tall shrub, only reaching about three feet after many years, but the flowers produced in late winter to early spring are so scented that you will enjoy and always remember this plant. The scented flowers are pale pink to white with carmine buds. This Daphne is evergreen and prefers a rich moist limey soil in a sheltered woodland garden. It will grow in sun or partial shade, but in Scotland it would be better with a sunny aspect. The plant has a stringy root system that does not transplant easily and hates disturbance, so it can present quite a challenge.

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START SEED SOWING NOW

START SEED SOWING NOW

Winter is not yet finished as we are only in mid February, but every time we get a sunny day there is enough warmth to get some outdoor plants active. Snowdrops and aconites are well out and a very welcome sign that spring is not too far away. Buds on roses always seem to be ready to burst especially my climber on the south facing house wall. It has been underplanted with crocus and the warm wall has brought these out to show the first bit of colour. Later on, after these finish flowering, a naturalised group of Californian poppies take over for the summer months. None of these interfere with the growth of the climbing rose. It was necessary to remove a two foot square paving slab next to the house wall and remove a foot depth of builders rubbish and hardcore, and replace it with some decent topsoil mixed with compost before the climbing rose bush, Dublin Bay could be planted. The roots may only have hardcore, rubble and clay beyond my wee hole, but this climber has thrived. The catalogue says it will grow to seven feet tall, but I have had to keep it pruned to reduce height after it reached twelve feet. In summer it gets covered in a mass of bright red flowers.

Indoor work has begun with the first sowings of tomatoes, sweet peas and broad beans. I start the tomatoes in shallow seed trays, and the sweet peas go in large cellular trays at three per cell, but the broad beans get one cell per seed. Initially they are all kept warm under a table at home, but as soon as germination begins they will be transferred to a sunny windowsill. Both sweet peas and broad beans however are quite tough so they will get hardened off quickly and go into my cold greenhouse.

Tomatoes

Last year the cold wet sunless weather really devastated the tomato crop. Alicante, Sweet Million and Gardeners Delight all suffered badly and many got replaced after rotting off in the growbags. Fellow allotmenteers rallied round with a batch of fresh young plants to replace them, but unfortunately labels had been lost so the varieties were unknown. This was indeed very unfortunate as one plant defied all the odds, put on fantastic growth and cropped brilliantly. The cold wet summer did not bother it. Now as I don’t know which variety it was, and I definitely want to try it again, I allowed the sideshoots to grow in the autumn and took them off as cuttings. I now have four excellent plants in pots which have had the tops removed so they will branch and I will get another batch of cuttings for this summer. It will be interesting to compare how they will perform against the new plants from seed.

Sweet Peas

You can sow the seed in autumn and overwinter them in a cold frame or cold greenhouse. This will give plants for planting out in early March which will then flower very early. Or sow them now for planting out at the end of March.

Sweet peas grow best in well manured soil which has been dug deeply. They can be grown up six foot canes as a cordon with sideshoots and tendrils removed to give large blooms on long stems. The stems are supported with sweet pea rings. Feed regularly for the biggest flowers, and once they reach the top of the canes you will need to remove the sweet pea rings which support them, lower the stems onto the ground and let them grow up the nearest cane again. If you are happy to grow for a colourful wall of colour just allow them to grow up a supported net six foot or more tall.

Broad Beans

Another plant that likes to be well fed so make sure the ground has been composted when digging, and give a generous dose of fertiliser before planting. After germination grow on quite cool as they are quite hardy. I also keep back some seed for a later sowing to give me plants to fill up empty space after spring cabbage or late leeks are finished, or even after my early summer salads grown under low polythene tunnels have been harvested. These give a smaller crop, but still very welcome and the broad bean roots have nitrogen fixing nodules on them which rot down to benefit the next crop.

Plant of the week

Scarlet willow, Salix alba britzensis is at its best in winter after leaf fall to show off its bright orange red stems. I grow two bushes at the back of my coloured stem border in the winter garden. Last year they put on ten feet of growth even though I cut them down to ground level every year. They obviously enjoyed the wet summer. They will be pruned again at the end of March before growth commences and I will reuse the straight stems as garden canes, but remember they are still alive and will want to grow again. They can also be grown as a medium sized tree and are still very attractive in winter. Willows are very useful trees as they contain salicin which is used to make aspirin. Stems are also used to make baskets, living fences, cricket bats and the excellent vigorous growth makes it perfect for harvesting as a biomass fuel. They propagate very easy from hardwood cuttings in winter.

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