ALLOTMENT PLANTING AND SOWING

ALLOTMENT PLANTING AND SOWING

The soil has not yet warmed up to allow sowing and planting of all crops on the allotment, but hardy crops such as broad beans are safe to plant. Although we have had very little sunshine or warmth at City Road at least it has been relatively dry so the soil can be firmed up, raked level and measured up and marked out for sowing and planting.

Apart from salads, broad beans are one of the earlier crops to be harvested in summer. I have planted out a double row with plants nine inches apart each way. They go on the rotation section of heavy feeders including other beans and peas, onions, leeks, pumpkins and courgettes. I give the rows a dusting of Growmore fertiliser to get them moving. The taller varieties sometimes need staking, though on our heavier soil they form a strong root system which seems to hold them firm and upright just fine.

Pea Feltham First can also be sown now on well manured and cultivated soil. The peas and beans which follow my cabbage, cauliflowers and sprouts, also benefit from a dressing of lime adding to the soil nearly two years ago in advance of planting the brassicas.

The peas get sown in a flat drill about two inches deep and at least six inches wide spacing the seeds in three rows about two to three inches apart. Although this is not a tall variety it will still need some support once the seeds germinate.

Other vegetables to get sown now include leeks, turnips and parsnip. The leeks get sown thinly in a seed bed row so they can be lifted once they grow to about six inches tall and transplanted.

I will only be sowing a half row of turnips then another half row next month otherwise they are all ready together giving a crop that only lasts less than a couple of months.

Parsnips need a long season of growth on good soil that was manured for a previous crop; otherwise roots are liable to fork instead of giving us one long thick root.

Early salad crops of lettuce, radish, spring onion and beetroot are all growing just nicely in cellular trays on my windowsills. Hopefully by the time this appears in print I will have my new greenhouse erected and full of very happy plants. However these salads are ultimately destined for planting under low polythene tunnels on my allotment. This will make room for my tuberous begonias beginning to sprout at home in a warm room, but would be much happier in my new greenhouse.

Most potatoes will now have been planted, as soil conditions have been perfect although the soil has not yet really warmed up. I chitted my seed potatoes indoors near a windowsill with good light, but in a cool room so the shoots did not get too big.

The first of the rhubarb crop is now ready for pulling, with Timperly Early showing good growth of bright red stems. There is always several shoots ready to produce flowering stems, so cut these off as soon as they are spotted so the plants can conserve their energy into giving us plenty of strong red stems.

In the kitchen

The stored Bramley apples have lasted a long time, but keeping them beyond April is pushing it a bit far. We have enjoyed them for over six months, using them at every opportunity. My favourite is sliced and fried together with my bacon, eggs, tomatoes and mushrooms.

Surplus apples have been brewed into ten demijohns of wine, but there was still one huge box left. Brown rot can quickly spread, so Anna took control of them in the kitchen. After washing and removing any damaged bits, they were peeled and dropped into slightly salted water to stop them going brown. Then washed again to remove salt, cored and sliced before packing into freezer bags of about one pound weight. These will keep us supplied with apples till this years crop is ready next October so we can always enjoy crumbles, pies, stewed apple, and apple Charlottes.

 Plant of the week

Tulip fosteriana Red Emperor. This old variety, (I was planting it in Dawson park in 1960) is still very popular as it is very early, reliable, and has large heads of dazzling scarlet. It is also known as Madame Lefeber and is great alongside daffodils and narcissi planted underneath a forsythia bush as they often all flower together.

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GARDEN BURSTS INTO LIFE

GARDEN BURSTS INTO LIFE

There is a flurry of activity all over the garden as plants leap into growth taking advantage of any sunny days. The ground has dried up just fine and now allows seed sowing and planting of a whole range of plants. Spring flowers are now brightening up the gardens with daffodils and narcissi at their best. The early tulip Scarlet Baby is one of my first to bloom, and although it is a dwarf variety the intense red colour is very dramatic. Hyacinths left over from tubs planted up in previous years and planted in my herbaceous border and where ever I find gaps are now in full flower and fill the air with their scent. Some of these were planted in my coloured stem winter garden in between the Kerria, Cornus and Salix. The latter two have started to grow so now is the time I lop the shoots down to ground level so they can grow again from the stool. This clearing of the winter garden allows the hyacinths and tulips to develop and flower without competition from vigorous tall shrubs. Last year the Cornus and Salix put on excellent growth, so I now have great sticks to support my pea crop on the allotment.

On a larger scale the bright yellow Forsythia and the scarlet flowered quince Cydonia japonica are putting on a great show, but my Camellias are not far behind as both the pink Donation and red Adolphe Audusson have opened the first flowers.

Ornamental cherry trees are also creating a great display and my dwarf dessert cherry Cherokee is bursting with blossom, promising an excellent crop.

My outdoor peach Peregrine has plenty of strong flowers this year so I will have to hand pollinate them as there is not too many flying insects around. The tree has had two sprays of copper fungicide last month so I am hoping peach leaf curl can be kept at bay.

Outdoor grape vine buds are swelling up ready to start growing. However my Black Hamburg, Flame and Perlette are sulking a wee bit while they await a greenhouse replacement to warm them up. I pruned them in January just after the gales wrecked the greenhouse and had to be demolished.

The existing vines were well established years ago so I think they will be just fine.

Walking around the garden it is not just the plants that are putting on growth but the weeds have also started to gain strength. The first ones on my garden are usually the speedwells and pennycress left over from last autumn as it was too wet to hoe them successfully. It is still too damp to hoe so hand weeding will have to be done. These weeds are all annuals so perfect for the compost heap.

Windowsill gardening

Plants all have their season, so sowing and starting off plants has still gone ahead as normal, but not having a greenhouse has put a huge strain on windowsill space. The tougher plants such as geraniums, sweet peas, broad beans and fuchsias have been outside on every opportunity to harden them off. This leaves windowsill free for my tomatoes, lettuce, beetroot, spring onions and a batch of forty chrysanthemum cuttings. The stools have been outdoors since January but did not suffer in our mild winter, so they are giving me plenty of cuttings. However once the chrysanthemums root they will need potting up into bigger pots and require more space.

To be on the safe side I decided to construct a temporary cold frame.

I turned and flattened my compost heap to help generate some heat, covered the surface with a membrane and erected polythene sheeting over it raised a couple of feet. It is now full of very happy plants. I am hoping my new greenhouse comes soon as tomatoes have been pricked out into cellular trays and will soon grow too big for my windowsill.

Tuberous begonias have been boxed up and placed on polythene in a light warm room. They grow quite slow at first so should be happy for the next few weeks.

 

 Plant of the week

Puschkinia, the striped squill grows naturally in the eastern Mediterranean. Although it likes a moist but well drained soil rich in organic matter while growing and flowering, it prefers a hot dry summer to ripen off the bulbs. These lie dormant till the following spring when the pale blue flowers emerge in March. They can be grown from seed or bought in as bulbs in autumn.

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DAFFODILS AND NARCISSUS

DAFFODILS AND NARCISSUS

When the snowdrops and aconites are in flower you know winter is coming to an end and spring is approaching, but when the daffodils come into bloom spring is well and truly established. It is so rewarding to see these heralds of spring that just about every garden has a wee bunch or drift, and Dundee City Council Parks department had them mass planted along highways, in housing estates and parks by the million. However those were planted at a time, many years ago, when creating attractive urban landscapes was not curtailed by financial cutbacks, and the benefits are with us today. There is still huge scope to enhance the floral landscape, more relevant now with new developments planned around the V & A.

 A vibrant city of culture needs an environment to be proud of.

Dundee once boasted a very colourful City maintained by skilled gardeners. It would be a pity if that is only to remain a pleasant memory. However the road from Botanical Gardens to Tesco is still very eye catching when the drifts of daffodils come into full bloom, though my favourites are always the drifts of Narcissus February Gold planted along the Lochee Road. They are always the first in flower in mid March alongside the crocus flowers.

Daffodils and narcissi come in thousands of different varieties. Some have large flowers such as the King Alfred and Golden Harvest. Mount Hood has a large flowered white trumpet and a brilliant scent. February Gold has smaller flowers but when mass planted create a fantastic splash of colour.

My favourite scented narcissi are the Cheerfulness varieties as well as the small flowered Jonquils.

Some have beautiful colour combinations like Ice Follies, a white with a lemon yellow cup and Pink Pride with a pink cup. Lemon yellow flowers are very attractive with St. Patrick’s Day a winner.

Plant some large trumpet daffodils beside a drift of the early Fosteriana tulip Red Emperor as they frequently flower at the same time.

They can be planted in deciduous shrub borders, in amongst herbaceous borders especially next to some blue flowered Pulmonaria and even under apple trees or other fruit trees. Many people plant them in lawns, which is fine, but resist the temptation to tidy up the old leaves too soon as it is these leaves that help to build up a large strong bulb for flowering the following year.

Every autumn I can always find a spot for a few more daffodils, or I buy in for planting in tubs or forcing in pots to give early flowers for the house. Once these are finished they can be kept growing to build up a good bulb then dried off after a couple of months. I always reuse these somewhere around the garden.

If you are starting at the beginning, then after selecting those you wish to try, plant them in a random drift about six inches to a foot apart. In time the drift will thicken up as the bulbs increase in size. Encourage growth of the foliage after flowering by giving a dressing of fertiliser and leave them for a minimum of six weeks or longer before removing the leaves.

Take care when handling the bulbs and cut stems and foliage as most daffodils and narcissi sap contains many types of alkaloid poisons. It is not lethal but some people can develop a rash.

Daffodils are not troubled too much by pests and diseases, though narcissus fly can lay eggs which hatch out into maggots which eat the centre out of the bulb. Infected bulbs still produce a few leaves but very few flowers. When removing the old leaves disturb the soil so that any hole left by the old leaves is filled up to deny the fly easy access to the bulbs where it can lay its eggs.

 Plant of the week

Drumstick primula (Primula denticulata) flowers in spring and early summer with white, lilac, and pink flowers. Primulas like a rich moisture retaining soil that can be quite damp but still well drained. They grow about a foot tall and prefer dappled shade conditions.

Propagate by division after flowering as well as by seed or root cuttings taken in winter. Buy in seed as home saved seed may not come true to type.

Painting of the Month

Summer Seas is an acrylic semi abstract based on a coastal photo from the Isle of Skye. The focus was on creating pleasing shapes with colour in harmony and a very loose style where abstract qualities were more important than an identifiable location.

This painting will be shown in my exhibition in Old Ladyloan School in Arbroath at the end of May as one of the artists participating in the Angus Open Studios event.

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CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER ALL YEAR ROUND

CABBAGE AND CAULIFLOWER ALL YEAR ROUND

Spring is well and truly here and gardening activities are becoming very serious. Seed sowing started last month with tomatoes but in March there are numerous flowers and vegetables ready for sowing. However I want to concentrate on cabbage and cauliflower this week as they have become a crop that needs a lot of attention, and it is now time to sow seeds for an early summer crop.

They must rank at top of the list of plants to grow with the greatest challenge. I know of no other plant that has so many problems to solve to succeed with a decent crop. Onions only get white rot, gooseberries only get sawfly and a wee bit of mildew, peas and beans get off very lightly, pumpkins and courgettes just the occasional nibble from a mouse, but cabbage and cauliflower have no end of problems.

Clubroot is the main killer, but rootfly maggots can also devastate young plants, then the slugs and cabbage white butterfly caterpillars take over. If anything still survives those plagues the pigeons will seek them out and eat them. Off course you can also get greenfly, mealy aphis and cutworms.

However there is always a solution for every problem. I have slowly found answers to most of these troubles only to create another problem as full rows of healthy vegetables all mature at the same time, and two people with small appetites can only eat so much.

So this year my final problem will be solved by growing smaller rows, and doing a range of sowing dates as well as different varieties to mature over a far longer period. In fact my target is year round production so I will always have a cabbage or cauliflower available every week of the year should we wish one. January to April can be a problem with fresh cauliflower but they freeze well so there is always plenty around.

Cultivation

Cabbages, cauliflower and all other brassicas enjoy fertile soil, moist but well drained and a higher pH than other vegetables. Land should be well cultivated in winter, incorporating plenty of well rotted manure or compost and leaving the surface rough so it can weather down. Apply a dressing of hydrated lime in late winter to help to neutralise the soil acidity.

Soil surface is broken down, firmed and raked level in April just before planting begins. At this stage I add some fertiliser. Young plants need phosphorus to assist strong root growth to get them established then nitrogen to boost leafy growth. I am using Perlka which adds calcium as well as nitrogen which helps in the fight against clubroot.

Allow about 18 inches between plants when planting and always keep a few spare as you are sure to suffer some losses.

Problems

Clubroot is a soil borne fungus that destroys the root system. It is best controlled by liming to reduce acidity, practising at least a four year rotation and only growing brassicas bred for disease resistance.

Rootfly maggots which eat the roots can be prevented by using collars around the newly planted plants to prevent the fly having access to the root zone.

Slugs and snails can be controlled by pellets and picking off pests as they appear.

Pick off caterpillars during the summer months, though netting can also be very effective.

The only control against pigeons is netting the growing plants so these pests have no access.

Sowing dates

I start off the season by sowing in mid March with cabbage Golden Acre and cauliflower Clapton to crop in July to September. Later sowings at the end of April with cabbage Kilaton and more cauliflower Clapton will extend harvesting well into autumn.

At the end of May I sow my winter hardy savoy cabbage Tundra and Traviata which will be available to pick all winter and if we continue with a mild winter they will last into spring.

At the end of June I sow my spring cabbage April and cauliflower Aalsmeer which will overwinter for harvesting from April to June.

Cabbages can stand in the ground a long time so no need to harvest them all together, but cauliflower tends to ripen up all at the same time so repeated sowings a month apart is very useful to prolong their season.

Plant of the week

Chionodoxa commonly known as the Glory of the Snow produces a carpet of small blue flowers in March. It comes from the eastern Mediterranean where is grows in well drained mountainous conditions often appearing as the snow melts. It is very easy to grow in sun or partial shade below deciduous shrubs and soon spreads as it grows easily from its own seeds. Drifts can be started off with a few bulbs planted in autumn then left to grow.

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