APPLES
Growing an apple tree
has never been more popular. The breeders have been busy creating forms
suitable for any size of garden and it has not been lost on them that we want
flavour, a good red skin colour, an apple that can store a few months and a tree
that has strong disease resistant leaves able to withstand attacks of scab and
mildew.
Apple Fiesta |
We do not need an apple
that only grows to an even commercial size, requires frequent spraying
throughout the growing season to keep it pest and disease free and has a long
shelf life enhanced by even more chemicals. Our home grown apples are very
healthy as they have been grown without chemicals apart from a spring dressing
of fertilizer to get them growing strongly. Today we have the choice
of large
standard trees for the big gardens down to spindle bushes where all fruit is
picked from the ground, and for those with very limited space the choice is a
fan, cordon, an oblique cordon or an espalier to plant against a wall or fence.
Then tree forms get even smaller with the upright columnar Starlight tree range
and the dwarf stepover forms to plant along the edges of borders. A garden with
an apple tree with bright red fruit will always impress as they stand out from
the crowd. However apples as a snack fit in very well with modern busy life
styles, and for those that can cook the Bramley is perfect for numerous
recipes. Then for those that like to count the calories and are conscious of
eating the healthy diet, a daily apple fits the bill. They are absolutely
packed with vitamins, minerals and fibre. The apple season starts in August
with the earliest varieties like Oslin, but with cool airy storage others will
last till March. Thereafter if it is back to supermarket apples, remember to
wash the skin thoroughly to remove any chemicals bombarded on the apples while
in the orchard
and after harvesting in the packing shed.
Fiesta in bloom |
Apple Discovery |
Form and Rootstocks
Rootstock M27 is
very dwarfing so it is used for columnar shapes, dwarf pyramids and stepover
trees. Rootstock M9 is a dwarfing type used for cordons, dwarf bush and spindle
trees, but as it lacks vigour the trees need permanent tree stakes or support
systems. M27 and M26 and MM106 are still dwarfing but will give a bigger tree
than the previous ones, growing up to ten to twelve feet. Where tree size is
not a problem use trees grafted onto rootstocks MM111 or M25.
Varieties
Apples for Scottish
soils and climate are plentiful so look for Discovery as a great early, then
Katy, Scrumptious, Falstaff, and Fiesta for maincrops with Red devil as a great
apple in storage, though Fiesta is also a great keeper. For cooking it is hard
to beat Bramley which also stores up to the end of March in a cool airy dark
store. My preference in the upright Starlight range is the red Firedance.
Pruning Bramley apple tree |
Pruning and Planting
Dwarf apple forms are
usually grown on a spur system, where summer growth is cut back to about four
or five buds which are then further pruned in winter to a couple of buds. With
other forms shoots are left for three or four years then removed back to a
younger shoot to take its place. Upright shoots are removed as they would be
too vigorous at the expense of fruiting.
Bare root plants are
planted in the dormant season, but today most plants come in containers to be
planted all year round. As trees are in the soil for a long time, prepare a
good planting hole by removing topsoil and adding compost to the subsoil and
forking it in, and then replace topsoil mixing in some planting compost. After
planting add some fertilizer water the plants.
Wee jobs to do this week
Winter work in the greenhouse |
Time for a greenhouse tidy up. Hopefully the grape vines
will all be pruned and the tomato bed
I keep some spring bedding pansies and polyanthus under glass in boxes and hanging baskets to protect them from cold wet conditions before they go outdoors in March.
will be getting prepared for this year’s
crop. We all have our own pet methods. I remove six inches of top soil, then
sterilise the soil with disinfectant to kill off any soil born diseases. Then I
add compost and dig it in then spread potting compost from growbags over this
in readiness for planting. I keep some spring bedding pansies and polyanthus under glass in boxes and hanging baskets to protect them from cold wet conditions before they go outdoors in March.
END
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