A
FEW WINTER JOBS
The gardeners weather has been
very kind over winter. Seems like we must be getting
another mild winter, as we are
now at the end of January and I have yet to see a snow flake. In fact
it has been dry and warm with
just a few morning frosts and ground
preparations up on the allotment are well ahead. Digging has been
completed apart from where winter
Checking tree stakes and ties |
Fig cuttings |
vegetables
are growing, but it is always very easy to find other jobs needing
attention.
Fruit
trees and bushes and roses, (bush, shrub and climbers) have all been
pruned. Most grape vines inside the greenhouse as well as outdoor
varieties have all been pruned though I left a few shoots on so I
could get a batch of cuttings. Grape vines like an early start and
with the mild winter they are quick to spring into growth, so to
prevent sap bleeding from pruned shoots the pruning is best completed
by the end of January for those under glass and a couple of weeks
later for those grown outdoors. Where ever they are grown adopt a
Grape vine cuttings |
system
that allows good air circulation around developing bunches and
continual summer pruning to prevent the vines
Top of pruned vine rod |
from growing excessively at the expense of grapes. Establish a permanent framework of rods and laterals with spurs every six inches or so. Vines are very adaptable and are happy to be restricted to any space available, and perfect on a warm south facing wall. During December to early February cut all shoots back to one bud on the rods or laterals. Once growth starts in spring wait till you see the young grape bunches appear then start the summer pruning. Cut the shoot tips after two leaves have formed beyond the fruit bunches then subsequently cut all shoots after one leaf. When the vine is prevented from growing excessively it puts all its energy into developing the bunches of grapes.
Vine rods pruned in winter |
Grapes
are very easy to propagate. Retain some of the strongest shoots and
cut to lengths of two to three buds and putting them into small pots,
three to a pot. Grow them indoors in a cold greenhouse or on a
windowsill. Once rooting takes place and growth commences
remove them from the pot and
place them in individual pots. They grow very quickly.
Rhubarb crowns ready to divide |
Figs growing outdoors can also
be propagated by hardwood cuttings taken about four to six inches
long and treated the same as vines.
Another task on a dry day is
to check over tree stakes and ties and replace where necessary.
Picking a few sprouts |
This
is also a good time to dig up and divide rhubarb clumps that may have
been growing for several years. Dig up the clump and divide them into
strong roots with at least two or three good buds. Replant these on
fresh ground that has been dug over and compost worked into the soil.
Add a dusting of fertiliser to help them get established in spring.
Harvesting
continues with swedes, cabbage, sprouts, kale, parsnips
and leeks. The mild winter has allowed excellent growth of
overwintered vegetables.
Indoors
it is time to start the first seed sowing. Peppers
need a long growing season so they are first to get sown. Varieties
worth trying include Tabasco,
Basket of Fire, Krakatoa, Demon Red and Padron. Peppers will be
followed by onions, broad beans and sweet peas and if the mild winter
continues my tuberous begonias will be coming out of storage to get
boxed up in good
compost and placed in a warm
room.
Leaf spot and greenfly on pansy |
Wee
jobs to do this week
Check over young spring
flowering pansies for greenfly (aphids) and leaf spot disease and
spray all affected plants with a rose combined pest and disease
insecticide. Plants in sheltered spots are liable to infection in our
mild winters as both greenfly and leaf spot disease keep growing.
END
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